tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-22472163000765141532024-02-18T21:21:36.514-08:00Taking a Tern: A cycle tour in FranceHazel Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08950941425471706113noreply@blogger.comBlogger23125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2247216300076514153.post-53754883133876060802015-07-17T11:35:00.001-07:002015-07-17T11:35:07.424-07:00Day twenty three (Monday) Meaux to Paris 55km 3 hours 10 mins<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">Cakes: 1 x croissant each; 1 x pain aux chocolat each; Coffee 2 x each</span><br />
<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPuat90OMxm0S8joh9LQCzMBEufz8e-vDYVBMLtEMG9djbdLYxE7RTsGXvrGmJjFGP2o7J8hl5_bHDQceGm0FpDtWixl0tPacOBvCsW22rClGewOoeuFKcxilAyvsyOos1bk_FgrjtoHk/s1600/2015-07-14%25252020.45.46.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPuat90OMxm0S8joh9LQCzMBEufz8e-vDYVBMLtEMG9djbdLYxE7RTsGXvrGmJjFGP2o7J8hl5_bHDQceGm0FpDtWixl0tPacOBvCsW22rClGewOoeuFKcxilAyvsyOos1bk_FgrjtoHk/s320/2015-07-14%25252020.45.46.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
It was a bit of a gloomy, grey day to start with, which seemed somewhat appropriate. I cheered up some though, once John had emphasised that we were off to <i>Paris</i>!! So, I pulled on my big girl knickers and cheered up.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSmfzQDh1QGJpNnbudxaSMCWDVYmmaSGPtUOpLxn0bJ49E-6_nfPRIeH9eD8bwX9_WL2BlV3x6GtIyuxopm9X0lxY4eC14wfW2kplspAZq6nrd5_-4-PxT6rxpUaU_6Qp5LqVZsNYAjCE/s1600/20150714_084746.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSmfzQDh1QGJpNnbudxaSMCWDVYmmaSGPtUOpLxn0bJ49E-6_nfPRIeH9eD8bwX9_WL2BlV3x6GtIyuxopm9X0lxY4eC14wfW2kplspAZq6nrd5_-4-PxT6rxpUaU_6Qp5LqVZsNYAjCE/s320/20150714_084746.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
The afternoon before we'd gone out and checked that we remembered where to get on the canal, so were able to make a good start in light traffic (July 14th is a public holiday - Bastille Day). I had forgotten how bumpy and lumpy it was on this stretch, and it was only once I'd tried to cycle again (unsuccessfully) down the middle of the track to avoid the biggest stones that it struck me. The canal had been constructed during the Napoleanic period (a masterful piece of engineering), and was likely to have been cobbled alongside. The large lumps of rock, many still flattish and still in place, would likely to have been placed there in Napoleonic times. While this realisation didn't help make the ride any smoother, it did help some vivid imaginings of the sheer scale and effort required to build the canal.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQuFfObWCTk1YYNh1jseGwSzh8BNlC8dJkmXbM5EGzfeg3RZoHvEPgMXBSqaPnitY3-KYn_yK-YmLOFhTK5S0VfaRleEx910ORSZVd4Vg1_-JLVZRVU8kd9-5w5pv7W8dFkEPI1ZDMJek/s1600/2015-07-14%25252020.41.39.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="176" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQuFfObWCTk1YYNh1jseGwSzh8BNlC8dJkmXbM5EGzfeg3RZoHvEPgMXBSqaPnitY3-KYn_yK-YmLOFhTK5S0VfaRleEx910ORSZVd4Vg1_-JLVZRVU8kd9-5w5pv7W8dFkEPI1ZDMJek/s320/2015-07-14%25252020.41.39.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
Meaux, like any town of a particular size, is not pretty on its outskirts. The graffiti and rubbish on the buildings alongside the canal could have been anywhere. It was not long, though, until we left Meaux behind. The many runners and mountain bike riders became fewer for a while, and we rattled along toward Paris.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg93hkT79KsW6hbr00PyWnpAac1DTonW0lQJnqvJyxhM0zjyFLzP2UZS5x_2Dc_2pv87CkJJ3SSHZiYoBLGxHJMKLyxyjLLhA0SbPhpYuPkpfH5E-SaWiKcvdwbfbVIvg39zfcFSNqrToM/s1600/20150714_154649.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg93hkT79KsW6hbr00PyWnpAac1DTonW0lQJnqvJyxhM0zjyFLzP2UZS5x_2Dc_2pv87CkJJ3SSHZiYoBLGxHJMKLyxyjLLhA0SbPhpYuPkpfH5E-SaWiKcvdwbfbVIvg39zfcFSNqrToM/s320/20150714_154649.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
During these kilometres we passed the km1,000 mark, which was a point of celebration (accompanied by a pedal-powering pain au chocolat and coffee). We have been really impressed by the way the Terns have performed over a wide variety of terrain. The tried and tested saddle design (we swapped out the ones the Terns came with originally) has proven, yet again, to be an essential comfort.<br />
<span style="text-align: center;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG-CqKzFQcMusIvullV_SSjtHd6iY8QaHcLxVoiaLPAQjajD4HhTYnwC1Hcy9PgCoTQE1-Mv0Qu9z07wfBvS2OCDFlUeTD02x5HzVpqhcploE_VDxswpSUSGBxSjAdcH80oXIBRqddmdw/s1600/20150714_105514.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG-CqKzFQcMusIvullV_SSjtHd6iY8QaHcLxVoiaLPAQjajD4HhTYnwC1Hcy9PgCoTQE1-Mv0Qu9z07wfBvS2OCDFlUeTD02x5HzVpqhcploE_VDxswpSUSGBxSjAdcH80oXIBRqddmdw/s320/20150714_105514.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
<span style="text-align: center;"><br /></span>
<span style="text-align: center;"><br /></span>
<span style="text-align: center;">One thing I did initially use, which I haven't for long-distance riding before, are the padded shorts. John suggested that because all long-distance cyclists use them, I should give them a go for an extra comfortable ride. I have since returned to non-padded ones as I found the heat that was produced around my derriere led to some nasty chafing (TMI!!) I only include this detail to reiterate the old chestnut of 'don't change your gear before setting off on a long trip, and also to say - if you prefer to cycle without the padding - go for it :-)</span></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2COqxR_e47j6brgFXIdwtK47BE7G_QltcJAZjBmvDt-2bJBQHgQ_ZYuxHBR3uSP95P3I1dMpiOJzcBGUpRIkltur4HhqzhSBXveD-PVFKuasYiPcJa9VOCkzLfZMV5UAv8z_aZdSykTQ/s1600/20150714_124515.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2COqxR_e47j6brgFXIdwtK47BE7G_QltcJAZjBmvDt-2bJBQHgQ_ZYuxHBR3uSP95P3I1dMpiOJzcBGUpRIkltur4HhqzhSBXveD-PVFKuasYiPcJa9VOCkzLfZMV5UAv8z_aZdSykTQ/s1600/20150714_124515.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
The cycle into Paris along the canal was relatively simple. We had purchased a map beforehand, and John, who is a great navigator, safely brought us to our final destination - a delightful studio apartment in using the canals as a way to avoid traffic.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixwgko1Hc8NQiAiDkiMni1p3ZjEmCGNIeJ6-OivOuYerPutOHOAyx3Hadd8TJBNX82XFFuAzl-14tvHBAv5eD806BjGqd2INnpXc9b_Dom9QbwqMWaNw6nnQemo60dx3g2tAPZLTAhawc/s1600/20150714_125657.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixwgko1Hc8NQiAiDkiMni1p3ZjEmCGNIeJ6-OivOuYerPutOHOAyx3Hadd8TJBNX82XFFuAzl-14tvHBAv5eD806BjGqd2INnpXc9b_Dom9QbwqMWaNw6nnQemo60dx3g2tAPZLTAhawc/s320/20150714_125657.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
Being a holiday the place was full of folks enjoying the sunshine, and being an apartment culture, they had their deckchairs on the pavements by the canal, along with picnics and wine.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
It will be an interesting few days in Paris, and, as an added bonus, we are meeting up with John's sister (Yvonne), and niece (Emily).<br />
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRtblQD1v_WcIPCXIfCf5yitzym_jXh8MNlqbj7Y4KP3tZGz6Oi3BqzFGWA_re-BR5ukBVfgA9MOPeNvKVqj43BPxoZCaeYhXCVGTNRPXCUv1Y2n2l1ibd8lvHhIny3gznC_Hig4mYkJg/s1600/20150714_105310.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRtblQD1v_WcIPCXIfCf5yitzym_jXh8MNlqbj7Y4KP3tZGz6Oi3BqzFGWA_re-BR5ukBVfgA9MOPeNvKVqj43BPxoZCaeYhXCVGTNRPXCUv1Y2n2l1ibd8lvHhIny3gznC_Hig4mYkJg/s320/20150714_105310.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
The adventure has been a 'top' one, with challenges and rewards a many. Can't wait for the next one!!</div>
Hazel Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08950941425471706113noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2247216300076514153.post-60087093335659250422015-07-15T23:41:00.000-07:002015-07-15T23:41:24.655-07:00Day twenty two (Monday) Charly back to Meaux 45km 3 hours 15 mins<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">Cakes: 1 x croissant each; 1 x pain aux chocolat each; Coffee 2 x each</span><br />
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmMbnauZOxpkyst6LbemNccNTteKsBajUf5wUO3bVOm7fiF6Qy_QErQFi3-gMz7Y4M0Ynz3p3zTYCSisixTB4eoxHAw8Rsfzf5c8hOA0tdYbqvPAtAe_Ii3b8Gtyo54qgX53Xlp57-5mg/s1600/20150713_081434.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmMbnauZOxpkyst6LbemNccNTteKsBajUf5wUO3bVOm7fiF6Qy_QErQFi3-gMz7Y4M0Ynz3p3zTYCSisixTB4eoxHAw8Rsfzf5c8hOA0tdYbqvPAtAe_Ii3b8Gtyo54qgX53Xlp57-5mg/s320/20150713_081434.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
With a slight sense of melancholy for me, we packed up our tent for the last time (after 10 hours of fabulous sleep). We have just got into that wonderful rhythm that comes with any sort of long-distance adventure where we know where everything goes, and the order that everything needs to be packed away in...and the pannier in which it belongs!</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMXjVqVzH4Y34CCJKmrhx5iyvtk_CR2ydN2u0NEpeVb2opZ5_KmAG6oY24GOytsbEYmtPtgxqtChEemn6jH0dBzKgyoUpbsxRizQ3JXK0Dx23N_YHxPoasuA5CttUU8F75klCbSryus1c/s1600/20150713_100912.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMXjVqVzH4Y34CCJKmrhx5iyvtk_CR2ydN2u0NEpeVb2opZ5_KmAG6oY24GOytsbEYmtPtgxqtChEemn6jH0dBzKgyoUpbsxRizQ3JXK0Dx23N_YHxPoasuA5CttUU8F75klCbSryus1c/s320/20150713_100912.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
We headed off to the boulangerie in Charly where we were able to peer through the shop window to see the baguettes being made, which was pretty interesting. The guys there seemed to be perfectionists, ensuring that each baguette was formed as well as possible, and baked to ensure the crispy exterior, and light, fluffy interior.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOC15tZnb5TNeCAQEh50TKt5ynFWvKtH8uc6-z6tyy46eBPMwov91x8W0DV9VHIV2mEAOgbPplBz53eE-fi3mrJgRpH_8TGAnIHmUE6kgjFrB1h3gJ28a038H7a21CqlzUVFzabg4k61s/s1600/2015-07-13%25252015.06.41.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="304" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOC15tZnb5TNeCAQEh50TKt5ynFWvKtH8uc6-z6tyy46eBPMwov91x8W0DV9VHIV2mEAOgbPplBz53eE-fi3mrJgRpH_8TGAnIHmUE6kgjFrB1h3gJ28a038H7a21CqlzUVFzabg4k61s/s320/2015-07-13%25252015.06.41.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
One our first climb out of Charly we were followed through the valley by the barking of dogs as we passed each property along the way. A group of women working on the vines cheered us along our way as we ground our way ever up.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9P6TuPY2wWYtfZowrzq9ozl3_qw0l9zxw4wXby74H1iGarqWOslr2UUhAp9qPevk-qTL3WD2535BQX0ZN0dmjo9x-XBg-E7QbQUzdJWH7lV1-uQbyJLE643I_LKZUJfiyzgRycHu2eTQ/s1600/20150713_101431.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9P6TuPY2wWYtfZowrzq9ozl3_qw0l9zxw4wXby74H1iGarqWOslr2UUhAp9qPevk-qTL3WD2535BQX0ZN0dmjo9x-XBg-E7QbQUzdJWH7lV1-uQbyJLE643I_LKZUJfiyzgRycHu2eTQ/s320/20150713_101431.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
The French people, with the exception of a very few, have been helpful, generous, kind and good-humoured. They have often gone out of their way to help and showed great patience. This seems to contradict the opinion of Yves (you may remember him from way back when he sat with us at a Tabac and passed the time of day). He felt that the French, in his opinion as a French guy who had been the CEO of an international company, tended to keep to themselves and could be surly. He seemed surprised that the people we had met had been so accommodating. I wonder if it's partly the bikes...and the determined attempt of ours to speak (mangle??) French. I'm not sure what it is, but, so far, it's been a real pleasure.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgopYsLKkCMw2RIfpAur8GM6tO83SUaDaRqlHMmMXVakJlNc4P2ZypmQY3vKF94gO03Bi3XdUNxJ_yOmiMjr9vmSqkF-C9kNP_k_K8mOnLwTmOgpyCC3xUoOw9yBLK5f3r4BPi5Nf5zaZw/s1600/20150713_101452.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgopYsLKkCMw2RIfpAur8GM6tO83SUaDaRqlHMmMXVakJlNc4P2ZypmQY3vKF94gO03Bi3XdUNxJ_yOmiMjr9vmSqkF-C9kNP_k_K8mOnLwTmOgpyCC3xUoOw9yBLK5f3r4BPi5Nf5zaZw/s320/20150713_101452.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
As we headed toward Meaux (still not my favourite place), it was quite handy to have done the wiggly route before because we could remember most of the turns, which made navigation heaps easier. We are just about to head out in search of some food. The skies are grey but it's not actually raining. </div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY1M0RlOmv38e-eWyheHe0SMm3v6_cBTuMuWRReszeULaeAePSGkQrhSx4f7uwWymYj5MeWUzpOp7hDvGP6JMjYTSDTTd9IxlBPqiXW-Zoa5JXpTFJu-lXwgJt83ESEksa8ATqhVnUw5s/s1600/20150713_100811.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY1M0RlOmv38e-eWyheHe0SMm3v6_cBTuMuWRReszeULaeAePSGkQrhSx4f7uwWymYj5MeWUzpOp7hDvGP6JMjYTSDTTd9IxlBPqiXW-Zoa5JXpTFJu-lXwgJt83ESEksa8ATqhVnUw5s/s320/20150713_100811.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
Tomorrow, the last 50km or so by bike, back into Paris, where we have a place booked (an old artist's studio...John wanted to know if it was the artist that was old or the studio...).</div>
Hazel Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08950941425471706113noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2247216300076514153.post-87326312924329063742015-07-14T12:12:00.001-07:002015-07-14T12:12:54.303-07:00Day twenty one (Sunday) Epernay to Charly 75 km 5hours 20 mins<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Cakes: 2 x croissant each; 1 x pain au chocolat each; 1 chausson aux pommes (shared); 1 x eclaire each; Coffee 1 x each</span><br />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPnvX-LYAtxJx08S-RlvjzClbv8uEkNIXZ7tg5Fg9Z8xhm4vZO13cwT6v198Ie7eGHI1eCl4hrt7GYaDTUeHVz_zlChDwutol93mzlnF-DPkFOonFKdHxDPh67XtSdqZcGKFuaatOB4VE/s1600/20150712_084709.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPnvX-LYAtxJx08S-RlvjzClbv8uEkNIXZ7tg5Fg9Z8xhm4vZO13cwT6v198Ie7eGHI1eCl4hrt7GYaDTUeHVz_zlChDwutol93mzlnF-DPkFOonFKdHxDPh67XtSdqZcGKFuaatOB4VE/s320/20150712_084709.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<br />
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
We are now moving back to paths and places we have already cycled as we travelled in the other direction. I keep asking John if we can go around again!! Having said that, while the weather has been incredibly kind (and I do know that I sound a tad 'whiney' here) it would be good not to be cycling into a head wind for a while.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
One thing that is different is that the signs of the season are changing. The poppies are now mainly seedheads, many of the fields have been harvested, and some ploughed, and the grapes are very obvious on the vines.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ3BbNexSB5WYPTHIeH9yk7qBC-rUoqOKWchit_Pm1mSp67MAbK_up5rx1FAd7cnuM7OETLOrMlW1-UW89VzfXjaklZBcBX53skPwuidR7lEGVNtQXYiVNbPKq9e8zwoeu5xU66wUP6zo/s1600/20150712_123838.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ3BbNexSB5WYPTHIeH9yk7qBC-rUoqOKWchit_Pm1mSp67MAbK_up5rx1FAd7cnuM7OETLOrMlW1-UW89VzfXjaklZBcBX53skPwuidR7lEGVNtQXYiVNbPKq9e8zwoeu5xU66wUP6zo/s320/20150712_123838.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">As we have cycled through the towns, villages and cities I have seen a pattern emerge. In the vast majority of places many people cultivate a potages (veggie garden). These gardens are almost without exception meticulously laid-out and tended, weed-free, and apparently growing vigorously. The lines are invariably straight, and the canes upright. The effect is pleasing to the eye and I suspect, when the time is right, the stomach. </span><br />
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1d7Qhu7CeCYjzW-joRuipR9R64USi6et8ELm3APXF_pJ0UAmdWVUMNJaFsky3puGG7Ib97KjGWgYYpvokvWCARWBhyphenhyphenpQKyrQdMlAKUTkZ-AGcC6rhyphenhyphenpeQUj7KxBwnAJQ7LN70PKJ19S0/s1600/20150704_120113.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1d7Qhu7CeCYjzW-joRuipR9R64USi6et8ELm3APXF_pJ0UAmdWVUMNJaFsky3puGG7Ib97KjGWgYYpvokvWCARWBhyphenhyphenpQKyrQdMlAKUTkZ-AGcC6rhyphenhyphenpeQUj7KxBwnAJQ7LN70PKJ19S0/s320/20150704_120113.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
Mind you, I do wonder how on earth the gardener manages to consume all of the produce! I know when we had our allotment in the UK, and our veggie gardens in Auckland there were times when we were totally overwhelmed with a specific vegetable, and there are only so many way you can eat and preserve, for example, a broad bean! We tended to distribute the excess around our neighbours.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8D6WYE1ZeU5TRy8AmhZptLFwhOaMJqEa20f4G2KYqNyXA98i-uZujnI-6ls4bq80t_bEb50nDsehS48ctqbgirtoUb0YN6YR5RLm9XOfLWIQ5P5Unqhd2xJsuV4_iNE_QfdoETMrUZ2o/s1600/20150712_100302.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8D6WYE1ZeU5TRy8AmhZptLFwhOaMJqEa20f4G2KYqNyXA98i-uZujnI-6ls4bq80t_bEb50nDsehS48ctqbgirtoUb0YN6YR5RLm9XOfLWIQ5P5Unqhd2xJsuV4_iNE_QfdoETMrUZ2o/s320/20150712_100302.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
We had fun trying to find the campsite in Charly, which, when located, turned out to be very pleasant. We had brought a picnic along with us for the evening, and washed this down with a sample of the local champagne. The gentle drizzle didn't penetrate the leaf cover of the tree under which we were sitting, and we had a good long chat about what and where next - physically and metaphorically.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWT9sj7IxUzobIQ2yQXIsCq5uu9BsWgW_TZ0SPeZp4FYVxDu7otV0GladaEH7Wj7TvZWmKXLL7JKvyhrQK3namD4mLY7z4cuHw6IlUxLrkGHIsdq5ihO0nZqvMBP95mmzAlR_tD6GfulY/s1600/20150703_205655.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWT9sj7IxUzobIQ2yQXIsCq5uu9BsWgW_TZ0SPeZp4FYVxDu7otV0GladaEH7Wj7TvZWmKXLL7JKvyhrQK3namD4mLY7z4cuHw6IlUxLrkGHIsdq5ihO0nZqvMBP95mmzAlR_tD6GfulY/s320/20150703_205655.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
Hazel Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08950941425471706113noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2247216300076514153.post-29997399670446136052015-07-13T06:48:00.001-07:002015-07-13T06:48:27.457-07:00Day twenty (Saturday) Chalon-en-champagne to Epernay 50km hours<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">Cakes: 1 x croissant each; 1 x pain aux chocolat each; Coffee 2 x each</span><br />
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/461/19606145006_4d0a7c1c34_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/461/19606145006_4d0a7c1c34_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
Packing up our tent today we had a little visitor. It started with a bit of rustling around the bags and a little ginger tabby tail. The kitten who had decided to help us pack then got his nose into everything. He hopped into bags, tried to eat the breakfast baguette. Found the bag with the cheese in it and started to gnaw through it...all the time purring like a freight train. I have no idea how something so very small could make such a loud, contented sound. He was gorgeous and if I thought I could get away with it I would have popped him in the top of a pannier and brought him home. Instead we are left with some fun memories and a photo.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/537/19611926241_6ae182ee11_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/537/19611926241_6ae182ee11_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
Packed and fed, we said goodbye to the little ball of ginger fluff, and headed off to the canal again. The path was smooth and lined with flowers, and the air cool and heavy with the fragrance of 'green'.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
Initially we made good progress, stopping to admire little villages along the way. The path stopped abruptly so we dropped into one of these villages and started the process of climbing and descending. Now back in chalk country there is a quite a bit of this! </div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3761/19600520162_080a6fd6a2_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3761/19600520162_080a6fd6a2_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
After one such climb we stopped for coffee. Talking away John suddenly announced 'well that was a mistake'. I looked over and there, very close to him was a tiny field mouse who had run across the road and not seeing us, run straight towards us. The mouse froze. I went around the back to gently suggest it might want to make an exit into the neighbouring field and which point the mouse went totally immobile. I have never touched a live filed mouse before but I was able to softly stroke the mouse along the back before literally nudging it along - at which point the mouse exited rapidly. </div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/514/19607525085_d42c91b386_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/514/19607525085_d42c91b386_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
The vineyards have started to proliferate again, creating a very green background to the fading gold of the corn. We rolled along into the ever-present head wind suddenly noticing an apparent castle keep on the horizon. On closer inspection it turned out to be a whimsy that a 19th century landowner had commissioned to hide the pipes at the head of a canal - very cool.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3830/19012234393_4f1536a8e4_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3830/19012234393_4f1536a8e4_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
We headed back into Epernay for a second time on our trip, although John had been so zonked the first time he didn't recognise it! We managed to coincide this stay with some sort of motorbike rally (Eddie - you would have been in seventh heaven I reckon!!). This was interesting in many ways...although peace and quiet were definitely not the order of the day. </div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/413/19445159788_d36e767c2c_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/413/19445159788_d36e767c2c_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
We did find an awesome fromagerie though, and partook of some of the produce. There was also an opportunity to imbibe a little more of the champagne. John made an observation that I have been mulling over...it does appear that Epernay has focussed almost entirely on champagne, possibly at the expense of other history and culture around the area. I guess everyone has to make a crust, and judging from the prosperity of this town, and others that surround it, they are making a loaf or two. Off to Charly tomorrow!!</div>
Hazel Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08950941425471706113noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2247216300076514153.post-73353409310292367792015-07-12T08:06:00.002-07:002015-07-12T08:06:17.158-07:00Day nineteen (Friday) Chalon-en-champagne 18km<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">Cakes: 1 x croissant each; 1 x tartelet aux citron (Hazel); 1 x tartelet aux apricots (John); Coffee 3 x each</span><br />
<span id="goog_2049095070"></span><span id="goog_2049095071"></span><br style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;" />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/416/19576398935_3114458f28_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/416/19576398935_3114458f28_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<span id="goog_1159345847"></span><span id="goog_1159345848"></span><br />
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
A top cycle touring tip - never travel without ear plugs. They are your friend. In all sorts of situations and places they can help ensure a peaceful sleep. Case in point - even though the campsite was a little on the noisy front last night I had 8 and a half hours luxurious, delicious sleep.<br />
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/468/19550252136_5d2e52d578_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/468/19550252136_5d2e52d578_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
Rested, and not needing to stir until 8am (to go to pick up the baguette and croissant from the camp office), we dallied over breakfast before hopping on our bikes (sans luggage) to have a look at the town with its many layers of history.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/415/19389806819_161f25a076_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/415/19389806819_161f25a076_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
On the way in we popped into a supermarche to get a few things that it is tricky to find elsewhere. I popped in leaving John with the bikes. Usually, it's fine. With my limited francais I am able to greet, apologise, ask for directions etc. So, fruit, some veggies, a few other bits and bobs and over to the checkout I head. Wait in line. The checkout lady puts through the first few things and then gets to the fruit and veg. After having a careful look at the bags she then fires something rapid at me in French. I get the bunny caught in the headlights 'please help me look', unable to remember one word of French at that point. She repeats what she has just said, a little faster, and with pointing. Nope - still the bunny feeling. The lovely man in the queue behind me hoves into action and calls one of his friends (Claudette) over (she has finished her shopping and is chatting with a friend). Claudette dashes over, grabs my offending veggies and fruit, and heads back into the supermarket...at which point it occurs to me that I had to weigh and tag them. Claudette comes galloping back with everything sorted. This was an occasion where being able to say thank you in a couple of ways was a bonus!! Lovely folks.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/483/19576113285_2c730b38ed_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/483/19576113285_2c730b38ed_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
John had a good chuckle before we head into the town to wander through the churches, the incredible cathedral and the gardens. The place has a lovely feel to it, and surprises such as a timber framed wedge-shaped house butted up against a church.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/424/19389821579_c3727690b3_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/424/19389821579_c3727690b3_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
Many of the religious buildings, including the synagogue, were trashed during the revolution with many of the icons taken or broken. There was also a trend for then using the interiors as stables! Needless to say, although much of the stonework is still broken, there is no remaining signs of equine habitation.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/468/19550252136_5d2e52d578_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/468/19550252136_5d2e52d578_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
The second world war took its toll too, with gates and statues being melted down, and one of the old bridges bombed.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/351/18953448174_e34a630015_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/351/18953448174_e34a630015_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
We are planning to head back in this evening to listen to some music (concerts libres), and to sample some more of the local wine. Tomorrow, we have a short day of 35km to Epernay so we can maybe have a glass extra :).</div>
Hazel Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08950941425471706113noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2247216300076514153.post-6605404444319553002015-07-11T09:12:00.001-07:002015-07-11T09:12:11.048-07:00Day eighteen (Thursday) Saint Dizier to Chalon-en-champagne 82km 5 hours 20 mins<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">Cakes: 2 x croissant each; 1 x pain au chocolat each; 1 chausson aux pommes (shared); 1 x eclaire each; Coffee 1 x each</span><br />
<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;"><br /></span>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgb3wzmxWXj85kBE35aMpgvqIwzNn0ERRe1XZZ4U2KUZAdsoVAXd_fS0wxH09D2ASw8UnTRRpVVf0bVjTm_6L2UZkGxNNtKrGyVLS48C7R8b1CzTJrYhw1I81AGdJGVw7ZkR49Jcldp-8/s1600/20150709_095132.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgb3wzmxWXj85kBE35aMpgvqIwzNn0ERRe1XZZ4U2KUZAdsoVAXd_fS0wxH09D2ASw8UnTRRpVVf0bVjTm_6L2UZkGxNNtKrGyVLS48C7R8b1CzTJrYhw1I81AGdJGVw7ZkR49Jcldp-8/s320/20150709_095132.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
We had a bit of a chat about the nature of perfection and excellence today, especially around the notion of perfection as something that is subjective and fleeting - something that, in that moment, for a specific person, could not be improved upon - although John felt perfection was something where a line is drawn in the temporal sand that could not be improved upon going forward. Excellence on the other hand, we both felt there was an element of agreement around what factors comprise excellence, as well as comparison between things or skills.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE-myfCOKwFWAbYJrxru4qDhxIZPeLLuxy08J5iiVPibN3PvLrV0wLSYvvc9xjG7L8rSFlmKPKcFiJupvuWGI_C1-cHa3qb5NDm5pzmcNnh6i0moHQJcAPdKhnfs-GgwUcM7TFy4j74SU/s1600/20150709_134137.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE-myfCOKwFWAbYJrxru4qDhxIZPeLLuxy08J5iiVPibN3PvLrV0wLSYvvc9xjG7L8rSFlmKPKcFiJupvuWGI_C1-cHa3qb5NDm5pzmcNnh6i0moHQJcAPdKhnfs-GgwUcM7TFy4j74SU/s320/20150709_134137.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
This is a really long way of saying that, while yesterday's cycling was verging on excellent for both of us yesterday (although some factors were missing), some elements were (for me) were perfection. Today, however, if asked, I'd say there were moments of perfection (the reflection of the wild flowers in a still moment by the canal for instance), whereas the cycling was distinctly mixed.<br />
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_BJt4qfc0KyeFrB5Nak_aNDSVZjCEilToygMrL_rOijTotGXskUA1WTsi3zG7Q4ocHw-imChHkyJzKsNdozpofcAM2crVWYaqDpI-5n24VSP6N2H9HKC_EX4uU1OjRYTLN3eLSYS_vFw/s1600/20150709_101109.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_BJt4qfc0KyeFrB5Nak_aNDSVZjCEilToygMrL_rOijTotGXskUA1WTsi3zG7Q4ocHw-imChHkyJzKsNdozpofcAM2crVWYaqDpI-5n24VSP6N2H9HKC_EX4uU1OjRYTLN3eLSYS_vFw/s320/20150709_101109.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
For the first 20km we headed alongside the canal - which was perfectly straight...and directly into quite a brisk head wind. We passed the air base and watched a couple of jets take off (quickly and noisily); we avoided the folks walking their dogs and commuting cyclists; and we pushed into the wind.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCP2byg5PqY8XYcuUApJ_prNJ1BhikgylfcDbocLV9NoyAmnjtmKIO7cc_5bChOpaHHLXtFJXpvvtgizRyTdX6W6l85TSgKtxoch6yy0YUj7TmJqBrNuD__nuHIBW8J6xQPcRaMOq9hgE/s1600/20150709_100430.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCP2byg5PqY8XYcuUApJ_prNJ1BhikgylfcDbocLV9NoyAmnjtmKIO7cc_5bChOpaHHLXtFJXpvvtgizRyTdX6W6l85TSgKtxoch6yy0YUj7TmJqBrNuD__nuHIBW8J6xQPcRaMOq9hgE/s320/20150709_100430.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
A couple of highlights for the day included cycling past a tiny potages (veggie garden...more to follow on this subject soon), and cycling into a village that, apart from the cars, looked as though it had been transported intact from the 15th century.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeHAxnVICifF88M9f6MBywizw-q0E_QT4WKa1gbOhx0yh6e1u7cQVpf18HRDOuuX4-4aMcbq6gvwojs52OAYl6Nhrb_tgGb9u6p53wnK3F-6r8TpZTGjBqBcbTXGDwvfmJgbX684RJ6lU/s1600/20150709_121958.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeHAxnVICifF88M9f6MBywizw-q0E_QT4WKa1gbOhx0yh6e1u7cQVpf18HRDOuuX4-4aMcbq6gvwojs52OAYl6Nhrb_tgGb9u6p53wnK3F-6r8TpZTGjBqBcbTXGDwvfmJgbX684RJ6lU/s320/20150709_121958.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
Once we reached Vitres the cycle path abruptly stopped and dumped us in the middle of quite an industrial landscape (chemical industry), with large graffiti-ed apartment blocks, and a distinctly down-at-heel feel to the place. We made our way through the town and on to Chaumont along a really busy main road for the first couple of kilometres but then dropping onto the D52, where we stopped for eclaire.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgujkc7gBv_qS_OxAROZLYS49gjxoo16S5Dm1k80o0FQ9QsE7LXjJRbR-vTdY7eOtS7s4jfQWeDtwbgMCQEFTzh5SJnjRA8s5OvgBdMblAWPRwK1rcDCNDuGrIr7CScKJSztoPwT2vqLUs/s1600/20150709_134124.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgujkc7gBv_qS_OxAROZLYS49gjxoo16S5Dm1k80o0FQ9QsE7LXjJRbR-vTdY7eOtS7s4jfQWeDtwbgMCQEFTzh5SJnjRA8s5OvgBdMblAWPRwK1rcDCNDuGrIr7CScKJSztoPwT2vqLUs/s320/20150709_134124.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
We found a path that followed the canal again but the surface varied from lovely smooth tar seal, to pot holes with strips of tar seal sort of visible, to gravel path, to beaten earth (both with potholes). The surfaces where what John called 'interactive'! Made for a long 80 kilometers.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmHJWvLw26Ol8t5PcDWgQlMUEjWcU8gj3p5_Zv0WUhrgbeftUJbQfQ5a314c05-yPiVr3K-j_eJ-DCV4Qu9dCNN2vM5k6WbpC0_IkKSMrIthIc1mGHcbT1JcMWOF4HpDhC5FUiUB4L1vc/s1600/20150709_152943.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmHJWvLw26Ol8t5PcDWgQlMUEjWcU8gj3p5_Zv0WUhrgbeftUJbQfQ5a314c05-yPiVr3K-j_eJ-DCV4Qu9dCNN2vM5k6WbpC0_IkKSMrIthIc1mGHcbT1JcMWOF4HpDhC5FUiUB4L1vc/s320/20150709_152943.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
All the more grateful, however, we rolled into Chaumont, found the campsite, set up camp and then headed back into the town...which is glorious!! Jaw-dropping. We've decided to take an extra day here to explore the many layers of history (and cakes). Can't wait.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdq4s-UiRztKK12N3hHxD2ga5lBjdRovFYamkJamN2gLfJ28BHzsrBfQLO6ztgnjTmssriXl2E4Kjazyl968dvi1xlfNhLvGUv3zkPAp5E-iyVA6M3bANJmvKFA62tJJlBFDtAe96E8DI/s1600/20150709_095142.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdq4s-UiRztKK12N3hHxD2ga5lBjdRovFYamkJamN2gLfJ28BHzsrBfQLO6ztgnjTmssriXl2E4Kjazyl968dvi1xlfNhLvGUv3zkPAp5E-iyVA6M3bANJmvKFA62tJJlBFDtAe96E8DI/s320/20150709_095142.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
Hazel Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08950941425471706113noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2247216300076514153.post-17891775342824204672015-07-10T07:49:00.002-07:002015-07-10T07:49:45.506-07:00Day seventeen (Wednesday) Chaumont to Saint Dizier (Monday) Neufchateau to Chaumont 81km 4 hours 46mins<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">Cakes: 1 croissant each; 1 pain au chocolat each; 1 tartes aux almondes (John); Coffee 2 x each</span><br />
<div>
<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqdCAYrYuyp6wUne9AereAzvbC_qj7LZ1js45ZaguF964AvUfiOsVwmLhZITVrj-wHPqOPNHWt3CSNca66U5coPNMrTLZR-VX-XRHa1Eul3lEPtc9wsfT8ZiMT4PiD8l7V22PaEUwqNz4/s1600/20150708_084952.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqdCAYrYuyp6wUne9AereAzvbC_qj7LZ1js45ZaguF964AvUfiOsVwmLhZITVrj-wHPqOPNHWt3CSNca66U5coPNMrTLZR-VX-XRHa1Eul3lEPtc9wsfT8ZiMT4PiD8l7V22PaEUwqNz4/s320/20150708_084952.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;"><br /></span>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
What glorious cycling! We had been unsure as we'd packed up our tent (on a day chilly enough to wear a fleece while packing up) if the cycle route beside the canal would go for any distance with a reasonable surface. Not only was is a great surface but there was even a bit of a following breeze at the start of the day as well.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5dyRwbtfsLM1n2R0aOTzmhcIYMOn3cFycpLq3ShSdk-i7R21YvIGkYX2C1-1RiM6bYIKVWMXG0CuEx0vokjfu2jtbhLasGt12Bc-MZqds5b74Z002EAX4tVExgWZk5VfyMMmvSbRkMQg/s1600/20150708_085146.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5dyRwbtfsLM1n2R0aOTzmhcIYMOn3cFycpLq3ShSdk-i7R21YvIGkYX2C1-1RiM6bYIKVWMXG0CuEx0vokjfu2jtbhLasGt12Bc-MZqds5b74Z002EAX4tVExgWZk5VfyMMmvSbRkMQg/s320/20150708_085146.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
The canal was lined with a variety of fragrant wildflowers, as well as pots spilling over with geraniums and other brightly coloured blossoms, as well as old lock-keeper's places.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVV7oKPbehD76zXM3gXyhP6kGqTx8dYVLyVbpFEZLnHOe7TC_YlkxstTN4J38UUatAebnGgruAlEYlV-_I-1W3nniwveyZnPa9jJHAPuR9F9My0wKgdT-SBR6TFVoXliAan3MHdX46psw/s1600/20150708_090316.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVV7oKPbehD76zXM3gXyhP6kGqTx8dYVLyVbpFEZLnHOe7TC_YlkxstTN4J38UUatAebnGgruAlEYlV-_I-1W3nniwveyZnPa9jJHAPuR9F9My0wKgdT-SBR6TFVoXliAan3MHdX46psw/s320/20150708_090316.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
We ventured into some of the tiny villages that sat near the canal, noticing a greater prevalence of timber-framed houses. One we visited - about 30 buildings, a church, a hairdresser's and a tabac - we were met by a lovely old guy who told us (we guessed piecing together our broken French) that the church was open and we should visit.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi94RUcI46aKZhf7nOgB1pzVx8OBGXET8BNsWWU96qd6WUoWx9cFXhMoCyXAcLmwahzPzEpj-6PI60hevyKVjzZ4dVa_9tXI9TUGntLfOnqsDxw-jAp_WOEyZODGleC1jAVIhJr6f5aGjg/s1600/20150708_110124.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi94RUcI46aKZhf7nOgB1pzVx8OBGXET8BNsWWU96qd6WUoWx9cFXhMoCyXAcLmwahzPzEpj-6PI60hevyKVjzZ4dVa_9tXI9TUGntLfOnqsDxw-jAp_WOEyZODGleC1jAVIhJr6f5aGjg/s320/20150708_110124.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
The first thing that struck me walking into the church was the relative simplicity, the peace, and the beautiful light. As well as stained glass windows, some were edged with a lacy effect that mottled the flagstones. The whole place felt like somewhere you might want to stop and take a moment.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
We continued thoughtfully on our way pleasantly meditative, and delighting as the kilometres purred away under our tyres. </div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizewYC57e1LJK-Us7tqokgs9T6pYC2mK8_DRJ4eq4RRQOYeHJWQpfWpXTn8RqUDIzEi4_VgeUCqu6yh-FsRsr8keEI39DdlWJtDUUTpHwXSFRi81ZHaDCbzXGzEc7FXeINq8MkUWFx0m0/s1600/20150708_090510.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizewYC57e1LJK-Us7tqokgs9T6pYC2mK8_DRJ4eq4RRQOYeHJWQpfWpXTn8RqUDIzEi4_VgeUCqu6yh-FsRsr8keEI39DdlWJtDUUTpHwXSFRi81ZHaDCbzXGzEc7FXeINq8MkUWFx0m0/s320/20150708_090510.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
There was an interesting moment where I thought "stick on the path". Then another part of my brain kicked in at which point I realised that I was about to run over a snake. Not a good thing to do as I am pretty sure the snake (an adder I think) would have objected. Swerving a little wildly I missed the snake, slammed the brakes on and returned with my camera...maintaining a very respectful distance - beautiful.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGQ2mNhF-s1ltmnySfMMaPPbYYn2v0tTM6BwhdVj4SbhcNc8gM_pluS6CKSrx2eoa_qV4HJNjd57ctP6Dj1DyVPntW0A_U8tm2zAeBUzndYOj_IiDaCHp1P-AEpaH1CPr3rV5Tp9Xly0o/s1600/20150708_105618.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGQ2mNhF-s1ltmnySfMMaPPbYYn2v0tTM6BwhdVj4SbhcNc8gM_pluS6CKSrx2eoa_qV4HJNjd57ctP6Dj1DyVPntW0A_U8tm2zAeBUzndYOj_IiDaCHp1P-AEpaH1CPr3rV5Tp9Xly0o/s320/20150708_105618.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;"></span><br />
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
Saint Dizier is an interesting little town and we meandered around the historic walk (a lot of intricate cast iron and metalwork castings), before settling in for a beer and a good meal. Another long day tomorrow, and maybe the route will continue along the canal.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguO8pLByzQioX5-WVD60QbvDCABLOIYVm-LlPZWahOiBIRCXHLn78qK7fhg6uFsOPmW30jYQnNug1sTOMLuKArK0TxHKVgmL_o12nqCv34GFg82NHy6zSi9VL40enPPk1V-MEr7rBNhyphenhyphenk/s1600/20150708_085028.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguO8pLByzQioX5-WVD60QbvDCABLOIYVm-LlPZWahOiBIRCXHLn78qK7fhg6uFsOPmW30jYQnNug1sTOMLuKArK0TxHKVgmL_o12nqCv34GFg82NHy6zSi9VL40enPPk1V-MEr7rBNhyphenhyphenk/s320/20150708_085028.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
</div>
Hazel Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08950941425471706113noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2247216300076514153.post-73102082484558978792015-07-09T10:20:00.003-07:002015-07-09T10:20:30.130-07:00Day sixteen (Tuesday) Chaumont<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">Cakes: 1 croissant each; 1 pain au chocolat (John); 1 tarte fuites (Hazel); tarte tartin (John); Coffee 1 x each</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJYQAwXqaypezvmezSDrN6BUt12zzrU4qoH61mkmV1Rvq9Ux5oQ1oKm9chN4O2uKIJI3Qz15-fHkdeELaMDPdiUmXTvs6DG-EN1UK0_XL_miRx9yxPClg23qmTDzBYDrS9_Ss4qeUnCd4/s1600/20150707_110128.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJYQAwXqaypezvmezSDrN6BUt12zzrU4qoH61mkmV1Rvq9Ux5oQ1oKm9chN4O2uKIJI3Qz15-fHkdeELaMDPdiUmXTvs6DG-EN1UK0_XL_miRx9yxPClg23qmTDzBYDrS9_Ss4qeUnCd4/s320/20150707_110128.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;" />
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
It was a really great feeling to hear the cycle tourer next door (70 years old if he was a day) packing up his tent at 7am, and to be able to roll over and snooze for another hour. After a well deserved lie in we did some more washing. Washing by hand is something you get really used to on a cycling adventure, although I am pretty sure that sometimes we are just redistributing the dirt more evenly!!<br />
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAMaJRcKEmA75aDwjjRbxosEIHLepj_7XT44QWiEyaZw7iSLnZCAVyFNAqULFCjhNwtLm87qLMLCLPk15ZkDsa7klWBm_hPf0qazNSqQwfrzl-4TN4jSdkZ05n2P2cPABLYsP4G2wQmHA/s1600/20150707_105340.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAMaJRcKEmA75aDwjjRbxosEIHLepj_7XT44QWiEyaZw7iSLnZCAVyFNAqULFCjhNwtLm87qLMLCLPk15ZkDsa7klWBm_hPf0qazNSqQwfrzl-4TN4jSdkZ05n2P2cPABLYsP4G2wQmHA/s320/20150707_105340.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
A light breakfast and we headed into Chaumont via a steeply, heavily wooded path that climbed up to .a fort. We clambered around like 10 year olds and had a whale of a time having a look into all the dark cubby holes and grilles around the place.<br />
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEPY4fC3duvtDph4RAYwbmQd1O_xejs9eNpGdymSd0h7ktiUVlfo50SwAj3lnVbxnp54YjfCImsDA0-b9L-qJKvK7gL9Lp_PnE8Z0FBwZN6_pQoCaa0TtS_NkxRLCwuEPuSftt7qncVdk/s1600/20150707_103934.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEPY4fC3duvtDph4RAYwbmQd1O_xejs9eNpGdymSd0h7ktiUVlfo50SwAj3lnVbxnp54YjfCImsDA0-b9L-qJKvK7gL9Lp_PnE8Z0FBwZN6_pQoCaa0TtS_NkxRLCwuEPuSftt7qncVdk/s320/20150707_103934.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
Next stop was the extraordinary church. Part Gothic and then built on over the centuries, the detail of much of the stonework and wood carving was exquisite. We could also see on the ceiling and some of the pillars faded remnants of the painting that would have decorated the interior. As well as the incredible light, the organist was practising while we walked around, treating us to a musical treat that enhanced the ambience of the experience.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixE1h3eoIDgt1wrtwH6f2eetMqB99I0uMQUJU5PsFxSjsgBcP7azSGZGVQ3-1825SOw63SEUQdJxruGPiE7GNfnipisO_A0n3SPQrXyiMym_eESpCpGcjGhLIQvi3fuM9d9nr6Y_B-vkQ/s1600/20150707_111148.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixE1h3eoIDgt1wrtwH6f2eetMqB99I0uMQUJU5PsFxSjsgBcP7azSGZGVQ3-1825SOw63SEUQdJxruGPiE7GNfnipisO_A0n3SPQrXyiMym_eESpCpGcjGhLIQvi3fuM9d9nr6Y_B-vkQ/s320/20150707_111148.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
By this point John was starting to talk a lot about coffee and croissant - always a sign! A bit of carbo loading (which included the beautiful tarte fruites I have pictured here), and we then settled down for some serious planning for the final days of our trip. Air BnB was our friend, and we've booked an old artist's apartment with a bay window, a washing machine, and a place to store our bikes. Perfect. We also have a plan for the rest of the route.<br />
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV2VVp5nNNhFHqeFIGSn8AtI1Saov9DpDmKXLVOENMf9wwoh2PEgl1R6fTHc_GYaEir1uRvhxGcxzqH8oOLHNj-asFi2fwK79gDJavt84WwK8Um2MK9ys2PTF7P1q8RNOUhJtulNygYVo/s1600/2015-07-07%25252016.54.58.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV2VVp5nNNhFHqeFIGSn8AtI1Saov9DpDmKXLVOENMf9wwoh2PEgl1R6fTHc_GYaEir1uRvhxGcxzqH8oOLHNj-asFi2fwK79gDJavt84WwK8Um2MK9ys2PTF7P1q8RNOUhJtulNygYVo/s320/2015-07-07%25252016.54.58.jpg" width="314" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
Now it's beer o'clock, and time to sign off. Back on the bikes tomorrow, and a biggish day to Saint Dizier.</div>
Hazel Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08950941425471706113noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2247216300076514153.post-77508728262712835402015-07-08T12:07:00.000-07:002015-07-08T12:08:47.122-07:00Day fifteen (Monday) Neufchateau to Chaumont 80km 4 hours 45mins<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">Cakes: 1 croissant each; 1 pain au chocolat each; 1 tarte limon (John); Coffee 1 x each</span><br />
<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwvOI-7Mp1omPTTHGACYe5Uut1eXKyw8YAVGQ-AE7KIkBs9HTkBo8hUfhcCOOuSRDKLc1O_jifUWyE1A_AKKXEAok9SMKQ_xDScG797t4qzsVPioGtSh9AhjmGtaF1rXbS10VUjc0QOcI/s1600/20150706_075442.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwvOI-7Mp1omPTTHGACYe5Uut1eXKyw8YAVGQ-AE7KIkBs9HTkBo8hUfhcCOOuSRDKLc1O_jifUWyE1A_AKKXEAok9SMKQ_xDScG797t4qzsVPioGtSh9AhjmGtaF1rXbS10VUjc0QOcI/s320/20150706_075442.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Leaving early enough for what was going to be a hot (if slightly cooler) day required almost military precision and planning. What was supposed to be an early night was scuppered by the fact that the temperature didn't really drop until about 2.30am, making for a fitful kip. Panniers were, however, almost packed, washing (done by hand the night before) folded and ready if dry, and all technology was fully charged. Seven in the morning we sprang into action with John making a dash to the nearest patisserie - and the only one that was open - to get bread and pastries to bolster our meagre supplies of two apples and some cheese that had been melted once and formed itself into a nameless lump in the bag (the shops were all closed when we had arrived the day before).</span><br />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvQBzd4RCjs4kvMpUqi6pjConLgMW7LUWyJ6GWfuploY9dtDoTthyphenhyphen-dcChM82B9iA3ubBWnoxMFshIInYIGXKQLrjPG85me4OW87BGOfcxrB6LGO6-meCn92jVnU0ySBVZbJE61jMCwc0/s1600/2015-07-06%25252019.09.18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvQBzd4RCjs4kvMpUqi6pjConLgMW7LUWyJ6GWfuploY9dtDoTthyphenhyphen-dcChM82B9iA3ubBWnoxMFshIInYIGXKQLrjPG85me4OW87BGOfcxrB6LGO6-meCn92jVnU0ySBVZbJE61jMCwc0/s320/2015-07-06%25252019.09.18.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">By 7.30, stomachs making noises like wood pigeons, we set off...up the first hill of the day...an approx 5 km climb. Puffing a tad by the time we reached the top we pulled over for a bite to eat in the shade of some trees. Melted and re-solidified cheese and 2-day old apples never tasted so good!!</span></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5SyqaQrU8VTCopRdKh1j06HcSCVqGQfmFDCYEbCN32RCDjzK70T3OkChnhbAQmMN5T8L4O1e788rei3T1g5V6mUnWw98RXTZN1gQJxarD3RwM9nGjIuTY3AbWtkf4UF3C5qSZ93JZlN4/s1600/2015-07-06%25252019.05.29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="243" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5SyqaQrU8VTCopRdKh1j06HcSCVqGQfmFDCYEbCN32RCDjzK70T3OkChnhbAQmMN5T8L4O1e788rei3T1g5V6mUnWw98RXTZN1gQJxarD3RwM9nGjIuTY3AbWtkf4UF3C5qSZ93JZlN4/s320/2015-07-06%25252019.05.29.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">We rolled on through large fields of corn, barley, wheat and cows (all in separate paddocks mind). It was telling to see the corn, which was blue/green and unripe when we started out taking on the golden tones that mean it will soon be ready to harvest. </span></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidksBkvJQEW9fALKbVEvMKRyzi43_jArNhDFeFD4FcCITc1LzBuRErcG3KWW4FWs6umKbTfG3kmqSOObzSQdosraIBMoqnjKeV9bO35cjxnxMscQ30MITnjG6uWc-eFoy280sZzRZes-s/s1600/2015-07-06%25252019.10.32.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidksBkvJQEW9fALKbVEvMKRyzi43_jArNhDFeFD4FcCITc1LzBuRErcG3KWW4FWs6umKbTfG3kmqSOObzSQdosraIBMoqnjKeV9bO35cjxnxMscQ30MITnjG6uWc-eFoy280sZzRZes-s/s320/2015-07-06%25252019.10.32.jpg" width="291" /></a></div>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Once we popped onto the first D road of the day (try to avoid A roads where possible when cycling) we hardly saw any traffic, and bowled along with what turned out to be...a following breeze...our first for days. Bliss. After a couple of 10% and 20% climbs we dropped down to a river valley and fair hurtled along - a lovely route with absolutely stunning weather.</span></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsGeIo7YiuVbXBf4B3KVvfDdSKqJiDXg0R9LVp6HlOMpIzYhghT29p0S7CHjkK2yjvaVkJ1REExdYLF7rpLkQsTkbXfJbOw3GHjb1GzL11taXV-0002bXO0WVNBAvzJduXAbngfv2VMzE/s1600/20150706_174912.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsGeIo7YiuVbXBf4B3KVvfDdSKqJiDXg0R9LVp6HlOMpIzYhghT29p0S7CHjkK2yjvaVkJ1REExdYLF7rpLkQsTkbXfJbOw3GHjb1GzL11taXV-0002bXO0WVNBAvzJduXAbngfv2VMzE/s320/20150706_174912.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Passing one farm I was suddenly transported back to childhood by the pungent smell of cow dung, fresh hay and straw bales, flowers, and summer dust. For the next couple of hours the feeling was powerful with memories of the joy of six days of summer holiday, usually spent with aunties, grannies or other whanau, which meant being outside. The days seemed endless. Much of the time was spent on horseback, as well as helping with chores about the various farms / gardens, or wandering with a dog in the nearest woods clutching a book in one hand and a box with a marmite sandwich in the other. One of my favourite things was helping bring in the hay (when bales were small enough for one small person to lift by themselves at the end of a summer of chores). Everyone who was around helped from the oldest to the youngest. At the end of a long day, covered in hay rash, I would luxuriate in the shared sense of achievement and a big feed well-earned.</span></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzfWdlr60xX5Qc72I5twDhLiMnUUmf1NhmBqYl3XGTvlmujER73Zx4vHfzcOJzZFAHjVkrWinc9RO7phBcFM67M07k4A2pgaqsMbv1qyNDiuqNKmG9FzTZOuA_F-9xdYQGkf3OW8Dz-n4/s1600/20150706_101338.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzfWdlr60xX5Qc72I5twDhLiMnUUmf1NhmBqYl3XGTvlmujER73Zx4vHfzcOJzZFAHjVkrWinc9RO7phBcFM67M07k4A2pgaqsMbv1qyNDiuqNKmG9FzTZOuA_F-9xdYQGkf3OW8Dz-n4/s320/20150706_101338.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">My reminiscing was interrupted by lunch in a sublime spot by an old weir. We were also joined by a local chap having his lunch. We made as much conversation you can when both parties only speak a little of each other's language, and he offered to share his bread and water. Lovely guy.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDPGZhAGDz9WEspH_ten82yYBOtWchxuNPoaJjGSa8zhcVLGKfOz3QWEvd_dwSPsLp04o8KLrUoNci7LH4n0I4uRKRk4ddeFv5locfH93VdUL2lr5O8jzOXF11wM1wd7UN9t7OKIpp69U/s1600/20150706_120537.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDPGZhAGDz9WEspH_ten82yYBOtWchxuNPoaJjGSa8zhcVLGKfOz3QWEvd_dwSPsLp04o8KLrUoNci7LH4n0I4uRKRk4ddeFv5locfH93VdUL2lr5O8jzOXF11wM1wd7UN9t7OKIpp69U/s320/20150706_120537.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Feeling pleasantly drowsy after lunch, we set off again, for one of the biggest climbs of the day. Whoa - lactic acid. A patch of cool dappled oak and beech forest was a welcome relief, and absolutely gorgeous too. </span></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYn3MSBJozOLdYE0QW9idVAMk_8_b_jJr4GH4e4owhpDl2GAcymhUJxGIofHft-A3n7SDOUa9jEHSuiL5ZsbJ9RoF1cOJ4Jv0Fn3qArK3cyXCVELAcnLfqn_rCO_YjZQvRvShLn3q6GQE/s1600/20150706_115231.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYn3MSBJozOLdYE0QW9idVAMk_8_b_jJr4GH4e4owhpDl2GAcymhUJxGIofHft-A3n7SDOUa9jEHSuiL5ZsbJ9RoF1cOJ4Jv0Fn3qArK3cyXCVELAcnLfqn_rCO_YjZQvRvShLn3q6GQE/s320/20150706_115231.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">More climbing, and descending, and climbing - you get the picture - and we grind into Chaumont following signs for the campsite. Then out of Chaumont (down the hill we had just climbed, still following signs for the campsite), then back up into Chaumont (20% climb), only to then lose signs for the campsite. Not on the happy side we headed for the town centre (another climb). You may have guessed by now that we went up and down the same hill on different sides, three times :-) Ah well.</span></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglu5CuCidcINOszeNaqi4dhqIl9zGeVY2ADnYOzWzxa_7EVykbN05gN67Swk1a8Dwt53eNikDgXD9I9QlK3V35uZc3M10319E3QPsZ7Zp4_bha8qaPeC3tjjJMzLok0QQJBkg64mpiPlg/s1600/20150706_174439.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglu5CuCidcINOszeNaqi4dhqIl9zGeVY2ADnYOzWzxa_7EVykbN05gN67Swk1a8Dwt53eNikDgXD9I9QlK3V35uZc3M10319E3QPsZ7Zp4_bha8qaPeC3tjjJMzLok0QQJBkg64mpiPlg/s320/20150706_174439.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
The campsite is grand and we managed to grab the shadiest tent site with 5 of our own trees. Chaumont is gorgeous and we have decided to spend tomorrow exploring it. More tomorrow.</div>
Hazel Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08950941425471706113noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2247216300076514153.post-70517565056725348802015-07-07T04:44:00.000-07:002015-07-07T04:44:35.199-07:00Day fourteen (Sunday) Commercy to Neufchateau 52km 3 hours 20 mins<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Cakes: 1 croissant each; 1 measly chausson aux pommes...too hot for pastries (never!!!); Coffee 1 x each</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkfL-mWWegM_w_vHIXdDBs0rCvd9iuxaf0leXaoAdtI-w2j-Qo7BU5GNRQ7cJZSfzYJrarlQ3SGUd4fnPXEfP4mhH33HztvznoSooQ7FS4gpXa5W04mWUgzfrp97lktG0CsVs3udhB_JU/s1600/2015-07-05%25252014.49.42.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="179" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkfL-mWWegM_w_vHIXdDBs0rCvd9iuxaf0leXaoAdtI-w2j-Qo7BU5GNRQ7cJZSfzYJrarlQ3SGUd4fnPXEfP4mhH33HztvznoSooQ7FS4gpXa5W04mWUgzfrp97lktG0CsVs3udhB_JU/s320/2015-07-05%25252014.49.42.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">With reluctance we left the air conditioned comfort of our little haven in Commercy. Planning is now about putting in the distance before 2pm, which is when everything melts into a puddle, and/or burns to a crisp. We weren't able to get away as early as we hoped as the earliest we could negotiate breakfast was 8.30am. We nevertheless did full justice to the light, crispy, buttery deliciousness that was our criossant, along with oodles of fruit, yoghurt and coffee.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjngIF3CqBBxmzRrYyMFAQBcYAViuq_VChwKYt0V-z4rFr50KpVBcDGidtayfy1kz7OuspfECGuBfC24-xUcVNrSefUloVWi4shyphenhyphenh57R-pvO4l5m8Ox79fLAIy5uAegy4-W7FTz8cgGrX0/s1600/2015-07-05%25252014.49.09.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjngIF3CqBBxmzRrYyMFAQBcYAViuq_VChwKYt0V-z4rFr50KpVBcDGidtayfy1kz7OuspfECGuBfC24-xUcVNrSefUloVWi4shyphenhyphenh57R-pvO4l5m8Ox79fLAIy5uAegy4-W7FTz8cgGrX0/s320/2015-07-05%25252014.49.09.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">And it was hot! There wasn't a breath of wind, and the first thing we did was puff and sweat our way up a 5 or 6km climb. Holy moley. I thought John would do a Mr exploding Potato head on me he was so red by the time we reached the top. I tried a bit of poulet qui fait du surf.. This is where, when a truck or car comes by you peddle as hard as you can to make the most of the bubble of still air that follows the vehicle, which gives you aa real boost of speed. Very much like surfing a wave (board or kayak) the trick is to get the timing and speed right to revel in those few moments of assisted forward momentum.</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWlGYQ7yyFO09n0Yw7VV3aZ694hET6ZWMviMhMltIUMPnjptHs0v5jPC9bFbK0gjLOUIaF8zYQ1vKQm9Gr3i_6oQa6pw5Hp6LC1wHM08fH2DkpGSpS41nUII2Zn5cXYZkLcAtpcZj_o6M/s1600/2015-07-05%25252014.54.06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWlGYQ7yyFO09n0Yw7VV3aZ694hET6ZWMviMhMltIUMPnjptHs0v5jPC9bFbK0gjLOUIaF8zYQ1vKQm9Gr3i_6oQa6pw5Hp6LC1wHM08fH2DkpGSpS41nUII2Zn5cXYZkLcAtpcZj_o6M/s320/2015-07-05%25252014.54.06.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">The view, however, was, as always fabulous with arable fields stretching away as far as the eye could see, with 'clouds' of forest framing them, and spires of churches at intervals to mark the tiny villages. Glorious.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEL8KqFJR8PYesqCiaI9IJjq5F87uddKv9H5APCKhKnNH__LxND5PrnZxMqC3-R3wvF4EkQ-RqIc3eYUUhYrvWK9UF57QaklWhVI2JBHJTD5RfsdLGjjIgLABGZo8i_evFFtOGQmlB2QA/s1600/2015-07-05%25252014.35.04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="136" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEL8KqFJR8PYesqCiaI9IJjq5F87uddKv9H5APCKhKnNH__LxND5PrnZxMqC3-R3wvF4EkQ-RqIc3eYUUhYrvWK9UF57QaklWhVI2JBHJTD5RfsdLGjjIgLABGZo8i_evFFtOGQmlB2QA/s320/2015-07-05%25252014.35.04.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">While grinding my way up the hill I realised that the sludge of tiredness that had been clogging my brain and creativity for the last...O, I don't know...year or more...had started to wash away. As well as all the sites, smells, and sounds that have been feeding my brain, remembering and expanding on my (pitiful, but getting a little better) French is making me really have to think. Loving it. So, as we started the climb an idea for a day-long session that I will be facilitating with the lovely Karen Melhuish Spencer (email to follow, Karen :D), started to form. By the top of the hill I had an outline for at least the first half of the day. Loads of other ideas and thoughts hurtling around too. However, from anecdotal evidence based on a sample of 3, the duration of the vacation matters. A minimum of 3 weeks is required - 1 to relax, sleep, another to get over the grumps and let go of stresses, and then the 3rd to really enjoy and renew.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7-lfXO7SlOBwMmwOuVd7cHs7KUNhsfYrvvbQ762wbJby0lhYxNJJ_AceHoroWRl3wzEVs20Zi7eDk6C2WTWCTfGioNlW7WwgfCiWhNN9goPh24n72MreAKM3l1lZbukCevU2NG_vRf9I/s1600/2015-07-05%25252015.00.36.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7-lfXO7SlOBwMmwOuVd7cHs7KUNhsfYrvvbQ762wbJby0lhYxNJJ_AceHoroWRl3wzEVs20Zi7eDk6C2WTWCTfGioNlW7WwgfCiWhNN9goPh24n72MreAKM3l1lZbukCevU2NG_vRf9I/s320/2015-07-05%25252015.00.36.jpg" width="259" /></a></div>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">On the descent the clouds started to come in and we revelled in 15km of coolish cycling. Toward the end of this brief sojourn from being baked,, we swept into the birthplace of Jeanne D'Arc - Domrémy. We took a bit of a look around, and were particularly impressed by the reconstruction of her house, using techniques, tools and materials based on the originals.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNJod42rmIKD2zgAaeiuSXOqiOHLUm5P0l4povZx668QsVf2rVOns51hFxxTRFBjv0FN1UF9AbK0GBEA59X8MVn2XVLwHZuF7SpI5v1Z2G2LepdIWv9rgyy-8Gng9_VldYVD9q-tyTacQ/s1600/20150705_120731.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNJod42rmIKD2zgAaeiuSXOqiOHLUm5P0l4povZx668QsVf2rVOns51hFxxTRFBjv0FN1UF9AbK0GBEA59X8MVn2XVLwHZuF7SpI5v1Z2G2LepdIWv9rgyy-8Gng9_VldYVD9q-tyTacQ/s320/20150705_120731.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">While on our stroll around the grounds the sun came out again, and, after a quick lunch of baguette, cheese and apples, we off we set on the final 10km. There were a couple of avenues of shady trees, but otherwise it was cycling under the relentless sun, looking at tempting sites as we sped by to help ensure we didn't turn into raisins.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYJnD_xn0grvps0uOl7MlYtAo2edrruHlqO4zD_WR_Ung-bJ4MlZ_HXyIEEHU6G8MBaR6f06JRC-mvFAcWwS5wCIYQTGVxmCTkSzW9OS-jpH2o6lUC8nZ0IJpv4cUt8V80fgIXA6thTgY/s1600/2015-07-05%25252014.50.18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYJnD_xn0grvps0uOl7MlYtAo2edrruHlqO4zD_WR_Ung-bJ4MlZ_HXyIEEHU6G8MBaR6f06JRC-mvFAcWwS5wCIYQTGVxmCTkSzW9OS-jpH2o6lUC8nZ0IJpv4cUt8V80fgIXA6thTgY/s320/2015-07-05%25252014.50.18.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Neufchateau, after climbing the final hill (fun and games) was very welcome. Another hotel (a tent seems a bit suicidal) - but this time with no air conditioning. Ah well. We're just about off out in search of iced drinks. Promises to be cooler tomorrow - fingers crossed.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfEA5M0KiZ09f97TWH02O9s-_rC5UwVHoNtz0itPi-Tz9NCSR14Vfxo4M2tnq04d9_sVrfwMhGFViGfLRXWOI7CktnB5puVJQyd_05bkGCm5vhZvUYa2PHQwQhSzzIXV8lRbxNilE_dlc/s1600/20150705_210243.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfEA5M0KiZ09f97TWH02O9s-_rC5UwVHoNtz0itPi-Tz9NCSR14Vfxo4M2tnq04d9_sVrfwMhGFViGfLRXWOI7CktnB5puVJQyd_05bkGCm5vhZvUYa2PHQwQhSzzIXV8lRbxNilE_dlc/s320/20150705_210243.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>Hazel Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08950941425471706113noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2247216300076514153.post-45229521395567391752015-07-06T10:32:00.000-07:002015-07-10T07:57:55.969-07:00Day thirteen (Saturday) Commercy - Day off cyclingCakes: 1 croissant each; 1 pain au chocolat shared; 1 tarte fraise (Hazel), one ecalire vanille (John); Coffee 2 x each<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqGyXamsZngfkgIswxOyYcxJi7FBuElSyZLfxAqjZK2l-u-wtIWZ3u-gX28-u73LUcR-zB3TAbz9_Cduv91TdXgWbec5Oap2QF1FD-AcGLyQh_NeyNNTLM8XBBSEmTzjbhoutP5yYVH2Y/s1600/20150704_213611.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqGyXamsZngfkgIswxOyYcxJi7FBuElSyZLfxAqjZK2l-u-wtIWZ3u-gX28-u73LUcR-zB3TAbz9_Cduv91TdXgWbec5Oap2QF1FD-AcGLyQh_NeyNNTLM8XBBSEmTzjbhoutP5yYVH2Y/s320/20150704_213611.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Tired legs in the morning suggested that we had made the correct decision to take a day off. Commercy, somewhere we knew little about, delivered big. It's a town full of history, restored (and very old buildings), and some delightful spots by the river. Les chats are also very friendly (and numerous), although in the heat, most are draped on various surfaces asleep.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh51b6gV2Ko51mDUSjdwOTrW05Clb-jy5OhflO1oMWXUtEyhBKhQudZho9EA9Fa0-W_FP4T8VuSFMTnw9VxZnVADX4SS3qoi5vR0LuyGVkNCGhg30cm3P1F7v1BvWUq31N392DwMSf7QLQ/s1600/20150704_193300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh51b6gV2Ko51mDUSjdwOTrW05Clb-jy5OhflO1oMWXUtEyhBKhQudZho9EA9Fa0-W_FP4T8VuSFMTnw9VxZnVADX4SS3qoi5vR0LuyGVkNCGhg30cm3P1F7v1BvWUq31N392DwMSf7QLQ/s320/20150704_193300.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
<br />
Very short report from le poulet glace as John has written some fabulous bits below.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrkw0y5YoOy3GNN0J-ZUiREx6fjpt8ntUfAchc0pa1EnlHjikZ4jRttAH5auXnWc-OsTMhsOp8cvwQ0XDtwmucmQSmFvNwsEO9HhQtr_68VVK5TveUyOi4A9YTJ1NshOmwbnxCU4Rezjc/s1600/2015-07-04%25252015.56.50.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrkw0y5YoOy3GNN0J-ZUiREx6fjpt8ntUfAchc0pa1EnlHjikZ4jRttAH5auXnWc-OsTMhsOp8cvwQ0XDtwmucmQSmFvNwsEO9HhQtr_68VVK5TveUyOi4A9YTJ1NshOmwbnxCU4Rezjc/s320/2015-07-04%25252015.56.50.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<b>John's bit</b><br />
Currently settled in a nice little hotel in Commercy taking a well deserved day of rest. It is not your usual tourist destination but was once the exile home of Stanislas (Stanislaw) following the War of the Polish Succession. Like most of Lorraine and surrounding areas it was rebuilt after the wars but there is still a medieval feel to it in places. There is also a bit of Art Nouveau to be found here, most notably a chemists with beautiful wooden paneling and stained glass.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYDxf4RctWWHbNdt4nutfa5zlYQrDRbl1sHOh2sURV_xLvUlKv5OHEfufnrA1kFvBil02w6usnNXOacOTwJ0o970D5UpBxMuumn55SeoXwVM8jbgRgG8AEDCQ5E314lw1xd0_Huwfu3rg/s1600/20150704_193356.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYDxf4RctWWHbNdt4nutfa5zlYQrDRbl1sHOh2sURV_xLvUlKv5OHEfufnrA1kFvBil02w6usnNXOacOTwJ0o970D5UpBxMuumn55SeoXwVM8jbgRgG8AEDCQ5E314lw1xd0_Huwfu3rg/s320/20150704_193356.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
<br />
Temperatures remain thermostat poppingly high at over 40c by mid afternoon. Cycling has to start early and be over by 2pm at the lastest. I had thought my desert training in Dubai would help, but cycling in the blistering heat is a far different activity to hopping from a chilled house into a chilled car in order to visit a shopping mall with a ski slope and resident penguins. I wonder how the Tour de France will do when it gets here.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMzEza94Gr22Nl_OviePFxO33Xta3OYW_eHvxTTHQ1_MOEiFchHjPTmjtLgzXVkN2pSaucx9cPS948gSFUZN3NPhyphenhyphenS86S31qU9qqK8V_PyV3ob7tdpnGGwFST7LO9FvZiBZXZbAJS_bM8/s1600/2015-07-04%25252015.40.48.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMzEza94Gr22Nl_OviePFxO33Xta3OYW_eHvxTTHQ1_MOEiFchHjPTmjtLgzXVkN2pSaucx9cPS948gSFUZN3NPhyphenhyphenS86S31qU9qqK8V_PyV3ob7tdpnGGwFST7LO9FvZiBZXZbAJS_bM8/s320/2015-07-04%25252015.40.48.jpg" width="254" /></a></div>
<br />
On the road to Commercy we saw another baguette dispenser being loaded with crusty loaves. I am looking forward to seeing (and using) my first pain au chocolat dispenser. Along the way I have also noted the large number of hairdressers in rural France. They are everywhere. There are more Chez Le Coiffeur than boulangeries and patisseries combined. But while the latter are full for the few hours they are open, the hairdressers appear open all day yet empty. There are aspects of the culture that the casual tourist will never understand.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoWUnnKlpSUSfvl1-BKEGoVKiw_m2DurOCwC-harVA_Hs-uiAop3PbkRvERsX3sSHu4Dc-4h278nytwppT1PpkJOpszIgQDhv69DJM2LtFCEAqkvexeCOv8OFiNtNKb1ojlkh908GZeaE/s1600/20150704_193129.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoWUnnKlpSUSfvl1-BKEGoVKiw_m2DurOCwC-harVA_Hs-uiAop3PbkRvERsX3sSHu4Dc-4h278nytwppT1PpkJOpszIgQDhv69DJM2LtFCEAqkvexeCOv8OFiNtNKb1ojlkh908GZeaE/s320/20150704_193129.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Tomorrow (Sunday) is an early start to get us to Neufchateau and finish our trip along the River Meuse before we start heading West towards Paris. It has been an interesting opportunity to get to grips with some WW1 history and a surprise to see how much impact that this war still has on the people here. After reading of the horrors, and imagining that it was far worse than can ever be told, I can begin to understand how the impact could be felt across generations and centuries.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqZnkhxDp_FfwJ9e79w0ST55OcMAxIbLHvPyk3JQPLVQ2-FBVeASRqU_eZ9cnEPgBfTGwDer-A04FFoA19Pc0hQJ5dNRQA0AD9wBpRKglpo-krOdGlGEx9Ra7yp3bKHE76b4D8a0Kexxk/s1600/20150703_085240.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqZnkhxDp_FfwJ9e79w0ST55OcMAxIbLHvPyk3JQPLVQ2-FBVeASRqU_eZ9cnEPgBfTGwDer-A04FFoA19Pc0hQJ5dNRQA0AD9wBpRKglpo-krOdGlGEx9Ra7yp3bKHE76b4D8a0Kexxk/s320/20150703_085240.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
On a cheerier note, we are off to watch some dance tonight after a meal in the gentle evening sun at a street side cafe. For me, this is all but perfect.<br />
<br />
Highlight of the day: Stopping in a tiny village in the shade of an old house to read the map and being offered fresh cold water by the owner, puzzled by our journey and concerned for our welfare.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVQxW0Tgakiio8Ex6k8NQfARKn_OD-tJ3x8r24DthTM4kLM6n_avbtWqesKkAnSdSzxKVlpZVmghMvL_JNO8AMVriu0zlrJjveZBKpH3bSqv906KQPf6nWi7unDOCoFTjkuclj1ACzcS0/s1600/20150704_113710.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVQxW0Tgakiio8Ex6k8NQfARKn_OD-tJ3x8r24DthTM4kLM6n_avbtWqesKkAnSdSzxKVlpZVmghMvL_JNO8AMVriu0zlrJjveZBKpH3bSqv906KQPf6nWi7unDOCoFTjkuclj1ACzcS0/s320/20150704_113710.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />Hazel Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08950941425471706113noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2247216300076514153.post-18162836631573237712015-07-05T07:35:00.000-07:002015-07-10T07:58:15.892-07:00Day twelve (Friday) Verdun to Commercy 55 km 3 hours 45 minsCakes: 1 croissant each; 1 pain au chocolat shared; 1 chausson aux pommes shared; Coffee 1 x each<br />
<br />
<div class="post-body entry-content" id="post-body-91497016614282926" itemprop="articleBody" style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.235294); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: none; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; color: black; font-family: Times; font-size: 15.8400001525879px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: 1.3; orphans: auto; position: relative; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: auto; width: 340px; word-spacing: 0px;">
<div style="margin: 0px;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBh8QfMJ5DKrFvY_ccTDFdqJUK8M8hrffcvP4mDrZo8PW0J_3nB1o5EUiNXlpzLHUJI3XYjUG1b4VC4nrUSe-ETuqH7rs6NITzM63upMTlpoKamflFuz3aPsed5sqsSjtr6vnptVgYhuY/s1600/20150702_204613.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBh8QfMJ5DKrFvY_ccTDFdqJUK8M8hrffcvP4mDrZo8PW0J_3nB1o5EUiNXlpzLHUJI3XYjUG1b4VC4nrUSe-ETuqH7rs6NITzM63upMTlpoKamflFuz3aPsed5sqsSjtr6vnptVgYhuY/s320/20150702_204613.jpg" width="180" /></a> </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7GMvWOEqbCltXEXbAybKQ_j9q0T-tmGr0vhL72TNcI3pdcCZwGCzADrPilBZ-5qXrz0ldUfFFuFczWeiLXMluSEk260Way_G1MWj4zgY2aKMmbSq7v0LHUb-lL4tZimsl1nJlMWLbSIA/s1600/2015-07-03%25252021.21.03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7GMvWOEqbCltXEXbAybKQ_j9q0T-tmGr0vhL72TNcI3pdcCZwGCzADrPilBZ-5qXrz0ldUfFFuFczWeiLXMluSEk260Way_G1MWj4zgY2aKMmbSq7v0LHUb-lL4tZimsl1nJlMWLbSIA/s320/2015-07-03%25252021.21.03.jpg" width="277" /></a></div>
<span style="background-color: white; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">One thing I hadn't been clearly cognizant of was the devastation that the First World War wrought on France. Verdun helped bring that home. Those buildings that survived the 10 month battle have bullet holes and gouges in the walls. Images show men and horses, tattered and surrounded by rubble. The re-build is obvious everywhere you look, and what it's difficult to imagine is the human story behind that rebuild. Nearly every village through which we've cycled has a war memorial to folks lost in the war, and each will have a tale to tell.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicYrQyq32M-iemddSPW2d6NgFSTtpqtJJrzr8tgzGUua8PNEaVzbVml0NorKCm-ZZnODCPfzM1LvmlOkVovolYfOVxx3jgBv8lf9r_zfuLtaCbYQqTihNIKACsoCW5PbtDiyEBXDicJkA/s1600/20150703_085233.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicYrQyq32M-iemddSPW2d6NgFSTtpqtJJrzr8tgzGUua8PNEaVzbVml0NorKCm-ZZnODCPfzM1LvmlOkVovolYfOVxx3jgBv8lf9r_zfuLtaCbYQqTihNIKACsoCW5PbtDiyEBXDicJkA/s320/20150703_085233.jpg" width="320" /></a> </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrkWp1Od-bpm69JNk1yMEJmIYmuKsj1Y1TUR09dGi0QBzYPfkGdUZ24F9bXWLDB1Aluot_i6-o0JoPPOs67Viu0K4V_mClzZc7ADfuWymfnmhX_OlxlTJ45Mk3jETQLbUWQlOEWo_-Do8/s1600/20150702_105139.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrkWp1Od-bpm69JNk1yMEJmIYmuKsj1Y1TUR09dGi0QBzYPfkGdUZ24F9bXWLDB1Aluot_i6-o0JoPPOs67Viu0K4V_mClzZc7ADfuWymfnmhX_OlxlTJ45Mk3jETQLbUWQlOEWo_-Do8/s320/20150702_105139.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="background-color: white; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Before we came away on this trip I had, by chance, read <i>All quiet on the Western Front</i> which is set in France on the whole (I hadn't realised that it had been written from the German point of view, and there are some parts where the main narrator speaks of home and visits his family). The humanity and the universality of some of the themes such as </span><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">friendships and suffering - as well as the poignant absurdities - really made an impact for me as I read. Some small details stuck with me such as a massive ornate mirror that one of the main narrator's friends (another soldier) loots and carries around with him, unscathed, for weeks. There was another where the friends load a cart with furniture and works of art onto a cart. They sit atop the unwieldy pile until a shell takes out the cart and some of the men.</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWRrtQWSGk0Uv9JlZA6Qn0d05ZzThWkQEgJe3g67FyLQ_lAsKb0Au-LzvjIOmLd5uSjaziqRM_9F82on8Q-4qW0nPkDeZ4cJ-D0u8qJwnWLQ4om7A2s-IVG7ljMfTP3fo54yV1aLg296Q/s1600/20150630_103408.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWRrtQWSGk0Uv9JlZA6Qn0d05ZzThWkQEgJe3g67FyLQ_lAsKb0Au-LzvjIOmLd5uSjaziqRM_9F82on8Q-4qW0nPkDeZ4cJ-D0u8qJwnWLQ4om7A2s-IVG7ljMfTP3fo54yV1aLg296Q/s320/20150630_103408.jpg" width="320" /></a> </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMxt0bin24Ozw_q7za-JGtnDHI0VcS4lCeZXlwcZkXYH_R9kQIyaU8imLJKRxafGjhnnQ54-EkpwEiyHpHESCg4wm1EgW5ffSz051X5AFCslbO-fpUOY2JAsFq32Jm2E_hnmBeb3jtOAI/s1600/20150630_131120.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMxt0bin24Ozw_q7za-JGtnDHI0VcS4lCeZXlwcZkXYH_R9kQIyaU8imLJKRxafGjhnnQ54-EkpwEiyHpHESCg4wm1EgW5ffSz051X5AFCslbO-fpUOY2JAsFq32Jm2E_hnmBeb3jtOAI/s320/20150630_131120.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">It was the small details of humanity that for me, highlighted what it may have been like in France, rather than stats such as 100,000 shells being fired per hour, and 1 million deaths. It brings to life the pictures we see on many of the information boards we pass in tiny villages, along with the memorials for lives lost. The images often picture exhausted men, horses and mules standing in a devastated landscape of the broken shells of houses and lives. The endeavour required to renovate and rebuild in the following years has been huge, and, to me, partly captures both the worst and the best of human creativity and motivation.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrZd-_NkhX0fnFJflCJd14YDZYJsDMHsnfRFrzPFUrkoAUUIBVWX2EgpRsa-pFhwvSJhyUvuun1pBvqJKqf-bwkWEdiAOIh6pK37w4FAWAspzS87ljTYaI-eD1dcd9HSdunYoptz2K_RM/s1600/20150703_092423.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrZd-_NkhX0fnFJflCJd14YDZYJsDMHsnfRFrzPFUrkoAUUIBVWX2EgpRsa-pFhwvSJhyUvuun1pBvqJKqf-bwkWEdiAOIh6pK37w4FAWAspzS87ljTYaI-eD1dcd9HSdunYoptz2K_RM/s320/20150703_092423.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">While mulling on these thoughts as we cycled along, we approached a junction. As we approached a large blue sunshade (the type that folks have on their deck to shade a table), with a white frill caught my eye. The reason that it had caught my eye was that it was moving. An enterprising farmer, not having a tractor with a cab, had strapped the parasol to his tractor, and was happily mowing shaded by its expanse. The combination of problem-solving and rather lovely absurdity is still making me chuckle :-)</span><br />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmNNwHpZMv-YccyR3vSNO4ruCqfbR7mGlB542m6vMLvWkmiXq_JvaSPbCBUHLOl8aA4cxipRnfs6ElOv3oJBeFKEYA6yjcZY_hjxCFSeqOcsRqb_YIgab1lCBjduCAiT3z9YaJe3ly9GQ/s1600/2015-07-03%25252021.26.31.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmNNwHpZMv-YccyR3vSNO4ruCqfbR7mGlB542m6vMLvWkmiXq_JvaSPbCBUHLOl8aA4cxipRnfs6ElOv3oJBeFKEYA6yjcZY_hjxCFSeqOcsRqb_YIgab1lCBjduCAiT3z9YaJe3ly9GQ/s320/2015-07-03%25252021.26.31.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">As it was another hot day (topping out at 42 degrees), we peddled hard along (mainly) quiet, flat-ish roads - only 3 reasonable climbs today. Our morning tea spot was a shady tree beside an almost deserted sports ground, with only a guy with a watering can, and another with a digger, to be seen. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIOGx4cdKGZxT-Q5VrCcfpgxi0GwbX-egJ4F_eXEi-xryCR7aVzK_jl7rbVn4FGQI-CIYVlTO6j5bbegWfTTbhqpybddCr7kcKya5Eber_icTVZySD-An90LKqqQC2srwEy7Qf3lkOLS4/s1600/20150703_092721.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIOGx4cdKGZxT-Q5VrCcfpgxi0GwbX-egJ4F_eXEi-xryCR7aVzK_jl7rbVn4FGQI-CIYVlTO6j5bbegWfTTbhqpybddCr7kcKya5Eber_icTVZySD-An90LKqqQC2srwEy7Qf3lkOLS4/s320/20150703_092721.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">All through our cycles there have been some interesting juxtaposition of the rural and industrial, and the old and the new. Today was no exception with, for instance a 16th century church outlined against the backdrop of a quarry. Others include fields of corn with a processing plant in the background, and the odd cheese making factory cheek by jowl with a barn that appears to be made of timber, wattle and daub, and lime plaster!</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXTGL78PtPLNe27_EyekEuQR1bls7ZNByfitVjOfjgWtqDOJoSw5DqlaYqaVknWQPXcMpcfRMKHsf0ofSwczUCTRFZSqNuSLaaUBdlMenT_8JbqpBbB_G_VSWTHZEpved3l07t_PPCG2k/s1600/20150630_090728.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXTGL78PtPLNe27_EyekEuQR1bls7ZNByfitVjOfjgWtqDOJoSw5DqlaYqaVknWQPXcMpcfRMKHsf0ofSwczUCTRFZSqNuSLaaUBdlMenT_8JbqpBbB_G_VSWTHZEpved3l07t_PPCG2k/s320/20150630_090728.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Sometimes you pass through some fairly heavy industry on the outskirts of a town, and Commercy was one of them. After an unpromising start though, we made our way to our hotel Hotel Cote Jardin (</span>40 Rue de Saint-Mihiel, 55200 Commercy, Tél. : 03 29 92 09 09<a href="mailto:bernard.bou794@orange.fr" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" target="_blank">, bernard.bou794@orange.fr, </a>Monsieur BOU Arnaud). The place is really nicely done out, the patrons really accomodating, and the breakfast delicious. There was a secure place for our bikes - and best of all, air conditioning in our room!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgudv7kZyfH0sq9cSkIj1kX0RV2B_2jHqEiEO2DCdHT2Hfeh9t1tml0nsIsT7AQkMy8KQDxtcbyM2I2slIEA7gHsgpelDX_4b0rYWfzWd0MYQ94nG1BwtyQmwPSCtfyGzGWyI-kye2Fj7o/s1600/20150703_200252.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgudv7kZyfH0sq9cSkIj1kX0RV2B_2jHqEiEO2DCdHT2Hfeh9t1tml0nsIsT7AQkMy8KQDxtcbyM2I2slIEA7gHsgpelDX_4b0rYWfzWd0MYQ94nG1BwtyQmwPSCtfyGzGWyI-kye2Fj7o/s320/20150703_200252.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
<br />
After chilling for a while (literally), we headed out into the delightful town (more to follow tomorrow as we have decided to take a day off to explore better...and make the most of the a/c) - knowing that we were going to sleep well for the first time in a couple of days.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3krHOsXKH-A7C8ZLDoX1KnkGGB59oqN85BNj63WRMKa-lewtADoeXA3V3kHdfmxmtpaaA4pDPXVpK9E2kQWsgl0zKjvD7_Ikued7tud-BbscI7DAIU4d0IRveVn_frOtEDne4NVxdLQE/s1600/20150703_171414.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3krHOsXKH-A7C8ZLDoX1KnkGGB59oqN85BNj63WRMKa-lewtADoeXA3V3kHdfmxmtpaaA4pDPXVpK9E2kQWsgl0zKjvD7_Ikued7tud-BbscI7DAIU4d0IRveVn_frOtEDne4NVxdLQE/s320/20150703_171414.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br /></div>
</div>
Hazel Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08950941425471706113noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2247216300076514153.post-27757480615216480642015-07-04T07:29:00.002-07:002015-07-04T07:29:52.538-07:00Day eleven (Thursday ) Inor to Verdun 64 km 4 hours 20 minsCakes: 1 croissant each; 1 pain au chocolat each; Coffee 2 x each<br />
<br />
So, my nickname while cycling (although I probably shouldn't share this) is le poulet rapido. I am thinking of changing it to le poulet saute. While it may not have the same ring to it, it sure describes how I was feeling yesterday - rapidly cooked to a crisp on a high heat as the temperatures topped 41 degrees!!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpvxQUkzIk_-SnHnz3nnAMLQejgzunwAtd4EpKwwQ4l6RRXAAuYBG-U3nyF6uNB9j72PzEb0Ra-085CaSvw9Kx-1jB_xEb9wH9wyW9bAoPHlUP2zHEni7rF3U992_zE9Iqy3qH3gf6TYs/s1600/20150702_082855.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpvxQUkzIk_-SnHnz3nnAMLQejgzunwAtd4EpKwwQ4l6RRXAAuYBG-U3nyF6uNB9j72PzEb0Ra-085CaSvw9Kx-1jB_xEb9wH9wyW9bAoPHlUP2zHEni7rF3U992_zE9Iqy3qH3gf6TYs/s320/20150702_082855.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
We managed to get away at a good hour (8 am on the road and rolling), John nursing over 30 mosquito bites from sleeping with the windows open, in spite of him wearing oodles of insect repellant. I was lucky with only 10-ish bites; John is obviously way sweeter.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBYqGzb_melivpiSQ_SoDawX-MOsR2ZETky9lHeRbI4HuWyJUYC5UQRXI5GRtaZdb4faM3uDnT7Vvh9PuS7LcqwRRcV4rgSctebTzoIw9euSb6uinVczaHF5WkrgYfacUXjojg9CcEmhw/s1600/20150702_082901.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBYqGzb_melivpiSQ_SoDawX-MOsR2ZETky9lHeRbI4HuWyJUYC5UQRXI5GRtaZdb4faM3uDnT7Vvh9PuS7LcqwRRcV4rgSctebTzoIw9euSb6uinVczaHF5WkrgYfacUXjojg9CcEmhw/s320/20150702_082901.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
<br />
The morning was sublime with long shadows and a slight cool-ish breeze, which helped us up the first few hills where my legs were complaining a bit. The road wound through little villages, sometimes with great gothic and Renaissance chateau on the hillsides, often pristine, occasionally boarded up and deserted.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaQD5P8_AItFq4H2MLl2LkC55KdQte1bCbDayUr5LtzfW2GL8V9Oh4JASQsbtOoFvvPEkCBmkTTyjSBjNgwhL_3sG9qz4DWi1qHgWd6bbhsXVn5CfK9POBZMdXObSjHeWWnLsFeGRAVFU/s1600/20150702_100751.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaQD5P8_AItFq4H2MLl2LkC55KdQte1bCbDayUr5LtzfW2GL8V9Oh4JASQsbtOoFvvPEkCBmkTTyjSBjNgwhL_3sG9qz4DWi1qHgWd6bbhsXVn5CfK9POBZMdXObSjHeWWnLsFeGRAVFU/s320/20150702_100751.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
<br />
A treat was swinging around the corner in one of the villages to find an Ardennes pony (or maybe an Ardennes cross) grazing in a paddock. We just had to stop and feed her grass over the fence; it would have been rude not to.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6Aswpa-1FY2MAjSpyTUaP_AnVIxedDTH7_Kw3Fh5_bFHb_2RuHraGAsK_f15didKxXHF_q0qoDMskt2kjfQ02EQHlJM6PV1W-qefnqyPs43ZcamRhrWc7gMFA2WFTCUYi5rLVU9eNah8/s1600/20150702_084329.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6Aswpa-1FY2MAjSpyTUaP_AnVIxedDTH7_Kw3Fh5_bFHb_2RuHraGAsK_f15didKxXHF_q0qoDMskt2kjfQ02EQHlJM6PV1W-qefnqyPs43ZcamRhrWc7gMFA2WFTCUYi5rLVU9eNah8/s320/20150702_084329.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
As you wend your way through the villages we often see piles of firewood, stacked impeccably. An idle wondering was how long it takes to master the art of stacking (our wood pile looks like a dog's breakfast in comparison), and if there is a wood stacking ecole. I did see a couple working the cutter and splitter; which was a rusty contraption. The idea is to feed length of wood into it to cut them to precisely the same length. Alternatively, with fatter logs, a blade cuts the wood into sections, and the trick is to ensure that your hands are not similarly chopped. I suspect we'll be sticking to our trusty sledge hammer and wedges at home, and turn a blind eye to the mess the wood pile is in, happy with that fact that our arms and hands are intact, even if our backs are sore.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2ZLSpleXTbhzzrVEToMkdV-RgzrRz19FeiDmdfJ3w-m76Hredc3OYwpafQE9lzS4ALSq_FKjPF1pQ17k9U9uy8eFm-eBKq1KBT3LuV4KYLIH-wt97DjHCnNo7MI4MslGnC-5_3tOnnjY/s1600/20150702_110103.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2ZLSpleXTbhzzrVEToMkdV-RgzrRz19FeiDmdfJ3w-m76Hredc3OYwpafQE9lzS4ALSq_FKjPF1pQ17k9U9uy8eFm-eBKq1KBT3LuV4KYLIH-wt97DjHCnNo7MI4MslGnC-5_3tOnnjY/s320/20150702_110103.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
<br />
After the villages we were back on the open road where the wind had picked up and it was a bit like I imagine it would be cycling in a fan-assisted oven, We did find a relatively shady spot for lunch, with a bonus stream for feet dipping. The bliss of cold feet for a few minutes (and I think I would ever say that!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDY4oq74kSApMjX6WUykTyDtAnd1ERXmNwdrw43ywFuPdIpYnXkqo1gXR8FABgYZsioX_OWvHEx_NP8j8EwPHAbA7SWpvaoets5kYfqFhXrOB9PpA6O6eejhxas9omYrxnPmqYqqApbQ0/s1600/20150702_125115.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDY4oq74kSApMjX6WUykTyDtAnd1ERXmNwdrw43ywFuPdIpYnXkqo1gXR8FABgYZsioX_OWvHEx_NP8j8EwPHAbA7SWpvaoets5kYfqFhXrOB9PpA6O6eejhxas9omYrxnPmqYqqApbQ0/s320/20150702_125115.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
<br />
We arrived in Verdun drooping with the heat and instantly found shade and a Tabac that sold cold smoothies - bliss. Then, using wonderful technology, we found a place to stay having decided that camping just wasn't going to work as we watched the temperature go up to 41 degrees. Salad and cold beer were the order of the day for dinner, then 3 showers (cold) and sleep. Early start again tomorrow.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3Vn7hKxro-vYfgj3PBGd1d3jZSUn7osEpnvF8CEH29s33OQUv-0gTNqSrUxdplJ7BoRePfSJO5zSP_basUGRkUT4u5JrsVSrJNYWZhj4osUV04VNNLx7loz8VBj1XOP-YNC0E5sImIY8/s1600/20150702_100504.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3Vn7hKxro-vYfgj3PBGd1d3jZSUn7osEpnvF8CEH29s33OQUv-0gTNqSrUxdplJ7BoRePfSJO5zSP_basUGRkUT4u5JrsVSrJNYWZhj4osUV04VNNLx7loz8VBj1XOP-YNC0E5sImIY8/s320/20150702_100504.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />Hazel Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08950941425471706113noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2247216300076514153.post-84408852850400528222015-07-03T06:35:00.002-07:002015-07-03T06:35:28.055-07:00Day ten (Wednesday) Charlesville Mezieres to Inor 68.84km 4 hours 43 mins<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">As well as 9 litres of water...yes, 9 litres - Cakes: 1 croissant each; 1 pain au chocolat each; 1 chausson aux pommes; Coffee 2 x each</span><br />
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
It was stinkingly hot today...35 degrees plus. O boy. The cycling was still stunning, but it was so very hot. This was exacerbated by two things. This morning was <i>the</i> morning we chose to have a small barney at each other (par for the course when cycling with someone for any length of distance; conducted in theatrical whispers and muted growling tones as on a campsite there is nowhere to have a really vocal download). The second minor one was that John had lost his cycling gloves yesterday, necessitating a trip into town to buy a new pair. The upshot is that we weren't properly on the road until 11.00 this morning, for one of our longest days to date, and on one of the hottest days of the year in France so far.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/541/19164377488_0613e3c4f7_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/541/19164377488_0613e3c4f7_n.jpg" /></a> </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3760/18729296224_7c889227d5_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3760/18729296224_7c889227d5_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
So, this evening I am going to keep it short and sweet as I am so in need of some sleep. We followed the train tracks for the first part of today, reiterating for me that train tracks and their surrounds are much the same the world over. In particular the wide swathe of greenery, interspersed by abandoned and crumbling buildings, and dotted with stations every now and then.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/354/18731345323_bdc07eb778_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/354/18731345323_bdc07eb778_n.jpg" /></a> </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/383/19165822719_8f1438e932_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/383/19165822719_8f1438e932_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
The tracks were followed by a rather lovely, brand new cycle path that paralleled the path of the Meuse, but then stopped dropping us onto a busy, long, very hot, straight road right into the teeth of the wind. </div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: start;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/346/18729466574_40e9598137_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/346/18729466574_40e9598137_n.jpg" /></a> <a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/308/18729471964_183ae2f0a7_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/308/18729471964_183ae2f0a7_n.jpg" /></span></a></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
After a while we pulled over into the shade of a tree, at which point John took one look at me and volunteered to head off into the village in search of water and pastries.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/308/18729471964_183ae2f0a7_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/308/18729471964_183ae2f0a7_n.jpg" /></a> </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3736/18731361503_e3411bb8c2_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3736/18731361503_e3411bb8c2_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
Reasonably resuscitated we then headed up the hills - and they were pretty gruelling. The highlights were cycling up through a green and burgeoning forest (sheer heaven), and then getting to the top, which rewarded us with some inspirational views. The bad news was that we still had 25km to go (very long, and with more hills).</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/411/19164409790_b5fa7e0ba6_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/411/19164409790_b5fa7e0ba6_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
We made it, just, at 6pm. Water, beer, and pizza is now proving to be the 'nectar of the gods'!! So, now it's off to sleep, as the day begins to cool.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/316/18731380873_54090947f0_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/316/18731380873_54090947f0_n.jpg" /></a> </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/427/19352013665_dda1c3d3b9_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/427/19352013665_dda1c3d3b9_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
John's Bit.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
Also short and sweet. Highlight of the day, arriving at a campsite that only sells beer and pizza! Really, what more do you need! Also just watched the full moon rise, big enough to reach out to and touch.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3868/19165709179_9464e0003e_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3868/19165709179_9464e0003e_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
Hazel Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08950941425471706113noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2247216300076514153.post-914970166142829262015-07-02T05:50:00.000-07:002015-07-02T05:50:18.542-07:00Day nine (Tuesday) Herpy L'Arlesienne to Charlesville Mezieres 61km 4 hours 20 mins<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">Cakes: 1 croissant each; 1 pain au chocolat each; Coffee 2 x each</span><br />
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
Today the temperature reached 33 degrees centigrade, which was plenty hot enough, especially as today was the first of the real hills. We got a reasonably early start after a magnificent breakfast provided by our fabulous hosts at the Chambre d'hotes in which we stayed last night (gently reminded of the hour, each hour, by the church bell across the way!)</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm40nLpaTwMWZ-3ngH3qR-gKnnd-_p0ShCk2cJweDQSo_yxMkBHEbBfVGMdYFjPUBNv9A0y6Jijjgi5QrYWY2Bngg2O00T9nU3FKmdjgFSbD9hsJWMLVSL6zBb2c0QjILh90Ej4OZ7fpY/s1600/20150630_083833.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm40nLpaTwMWZ-3ngH3qR-gKnnd-_p0ShCk2cJweDQSo_yxMkBHEbBfVGMdYFjPUBNv9A0y6Jijjgi5QrYWY2Bngg2O00T9nU3FKmdjgFSbD9hsJWMLVSL6zBb2c0QjILh90Ej4OZ7fpY/s320/20150630_083833.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
John's eye, after being viscously attacked by a hornet yesterday, is rather swollen, but otherwise he felt OK so we hopped on our bikes, made a stop at the boulangerie in the next village, and then started on our way.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/297/18680731054_2f8bbd4942_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/297/18680731054_2f8bbd4942_n.jpg" /></a></div>
</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
The hills were what is often described as rolling (with some extra steep bits - and no one to provide a round of applause and encouragement as I experienced one time in the Champagne region). The views initially were of arable fields and stately wind turbines, then fields of poppies and orchards, then chalk escarpments, paddocks with cows, and patches of forest. </div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3835/19113016008_676bae4cb5_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3835/19113016008_676bae4cb5_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
Views were admired while trying not to think about straining leg muscles, and the fact that you have no gears left to pop into...and there is still quite a lot of hill to go. We gradually climbed to the point where we could see for miles, and it was lovely! Little villages nestled in beside stands of trees, always with a church, which always has a different spire or flourish to it.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3832/19304531691_ba05d411af_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3832/19304531691_ba05d411af_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
The lunch spot was idyllic. Beside a gently flowing river, under the shade of trees, with watercress to pick as an accompaniment to our usual lunch of fresh baguette, divine French cheese, tomatoes and apples. One of the highlights was spotting, under an old plank, the tops of columns from what looked like a Roman villa.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
The only problem with lunch is the après eating lassitude and heavy legs...tough going for the first few minutes, especially when it's up hill as it was today for us. </div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/443/19112921000_aeba23b740_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/443/19112921000_aeba23b740_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
We made a final descent into the gorgeous town of Charlesville. After putting up our tent in a rather splendid campsite, we ventured out into the town for a good look around (the stone in this region is a golden pink, compared with the much blonder stone we've seen over the last few days). The town square is huge, and surrounded by stately townhouses. The sunset added an extra edge to the colour of the stone, and I couldn't stop taking photos.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
We're just about to turn in. It looks as though it will be another 30+ degree day tomorrow, but the hills should be fewer - and hopefully John's eye will have gone down a bit (people keep giving me funny looks as though I had clocked him one!)</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
Hazel Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08950941425471706113noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2247216300076514153.post-10560382473828492162015-06-30T12:24:00.000-07:002015-06-30T12:24:20.845-07:00Day eight (Monday) Reims to Herpy L'Arlesienne 64km 4 hours 2 mins<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">Cakes: 1 croissant each; 1 pain au chocolat each; 1 chausson aux pommes shared; Coffee 3 x each</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf2Py0RrxwAB6lz7tldaPja-VgEZBQxl3U1zSWHZBmTtpU8TrT0jAXsnyPD4nL2XqxldGBvqmoi8Iu533YOF5-IBmRSYfvfFiDlzaj9V4I676B7pyZR2xo9IWT0IHtWDylyzkzWTwW3Tg/s1600/2015-06-29%25252016.03.03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf2Py0RrxwAB6lz7tldaPja-VgEZBQxl3U1zSWHZBmTtpU8TrT0jAXsnyPD4nL2XqxldGBvqmoi8Iu533YOF5-IBmRSYfvfFiDlzaj9V4I676B7pyZR2xo9IWT0IHtWDylyzkzWTwW3Tg/s320/2015-06-29%25252016.03.03.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
We left Reims and our lovely apartment somewhat reluctantly this morning. It was a glorious day again, and John had picked out a couple of last places to visit before we headed out. The first was a building from the 1920s where you could see the influence of Art Nouveau in the lines and decoration. The next was the back of the cathedral...a different perspective to the other 2 days. Amazing that it took us three days to take in all the aspects of this incredible building. The gardens sur the derriere were full of blossoms. You get really spoiled by the number of gorgeous gardens and flowers everywhere in France. The final stop was a Roman 'entrance' - a series of pillars jutting up strangely in the middle of an urban space and park.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGTG6iMJgtyHaxe6cWF_-een85seKV3hC9XI0ijQgJGG6uMfMOBoZLzOLdxeh-bXW6qL1gs1S1e5YTz-HHsmgKcJyj3Ib7J6ryOTglvwkss1Ncd5Xa-IKdkQPGJCDwS9CF-u0FbkUfkzQ/s1600/20150629_093936.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGTG6iMJgtyHaxe6cWF_-een85seKV3hC9XI0ijQgJGG6uMfMOBoZLzOLdxeh-bXW6qL1gs1S1e5YTz-HHsmgKcJyj3Ib7J6ryOTglvwkss1Ncd5Xa-IKdkQPGJCDwS9CF-u0FbkUfkzQ/s320/20150629_093936.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
After our mini-tour, the next stop was a boulangerie and patisserie before heading out for the canal again. Quiet after yesterday, it was easy cycling giving us plenty of opportunity to gawp at the working warehouses that line the canal from about 5km out. It was reassuring to see that the canals are still used to ship goods and produce around France.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/400/18651681524_97378123e7_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/400/18651681524_97378123e7_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
The further we got away from Reims, the more 'rural' the canal path became, changing from tar seal after about 10km, to a wide gravel track, to a narrow, chalky, bumpy track, to a bike wheel width chalky, bumpy track. This meant concentrating otherwise it would be relatively easy to end up in the drink! We did come around a corner to find two walkers sat in a shady spot in the middle of said track. They seemed really reluctant to move their pack, boots and feet to let us pass...but hey, they looked as though they had been walking for hours.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3vDo9J96psFQdwYYaJIC2RC5bDUtZsUB7p2d6vtf4aB-_lHpTPtS4lY1UMxmBq6E3ttvLQVj39KqDDurvXWvDabm4bJsdMV4FJqLvdvg9hAGlhp32RtdO1a1n9SN3uK7ipEcpNTqKHNk/s1600/20150629_173428.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3vDo9J96psFQdwYYaJIC2RC5bDUtZsUB7p2d6vtf4aB-_lHpTPtS4lY1UMxmBq6E3ttvLQVj39KqDDurvXWvDabm4bJsdMV4FJqLvdvg9hAGlhp32RtdO1a1n9SN3uK7ipEcpNTqKHNk/s320/20150629_173428.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
We came off the canal, and stopped for morning tea by a lovely looking wooden river boat, where we were serenaded by swifts coming in low over the water to snap up insects. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLNz4qwVs4Z-Tu6DnvEh_pqlKi26-AwQrzxmm-fRXPssTbbQw1fuYmWngDWJILk3dva917zjy9mkG35bUkVTjJADNDi1SBrpR05lFAgFxCOhAsZ_eP2RNn_KkQxvj3cQ2FwnbBQ7O1t2k/s1600/20150629_112035.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLNz4qwVs4Z-Tu6DnvEh_pqlKi26-AwQrzxmm-fRXPssTbbQw1fuYmWngDWJILk3dva917zjy9mkG35bUkVTjJADNDi1SBrpR05lFAgFxCOhAsZ_eP2RNn_KkQxvj3cQ2FwnbBQ7O1t2k/s320/20150629_112035.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
The route up through the village was...up. In fact, as we swung around one corner a lovely old gentleman, grinning broadly, said in French (I think), you have a steep hill to climb now, tracing a steep curve with his hand and arm. It was indeed a climb, but a lot was shaded by trees, and the view from the top was great. We could see the cathedral at Reims in the distance, with small clumps of woodland dotting the distance between, and a vineyard dipping down the slope immediately in front of us.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/540/19268729272_cd8f428215_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/540/19268729272_cd8f428215_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
The rest of the days was rolling hills, often tree-lined, with patchwork arable fields around us with dark green kale, blue-green corn, golden barley, and fields of purple poppies (for the food industry I suspect).</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/266/18652105904_d14d1ba0c0_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/266/18652105904_d14d1ba0c0_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
We took a couple of unexpected detours (aka getting slightly lost), but the pay-back with those moments are the unexpected sights and experiences, such as a lovely old bell on a wall, or a plough surrounded by flowers.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/483/19274332765_b8b80707fe_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/483/19274332765_b8b80707fe_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
Tonight we are staying at a chambre d'hotes in a lovely little village, so small that the proprietor is making us dinner as there is nowhere to buy food or eat out. From the landing if you peer through the ivy-framed window, you can see l'egilse (church) just across the lane. In a few minutes, showered and refreshed, we are going to head out for a stroll down to the river before returning for a bite to eat and an early night.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/373/19088358239_8a7fa50e00_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/373/19088358239_8a7fa50e00_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<b>John's bit</b><br />
<br />
Today we left the vineyards behind after giving thanks to the gods of wine and moved into a vast arable region with wheat and barley growing over the horizon where I gave my own thanks to the small but very important gods of all things pastry-like. The roads rolled over gentle hills and down to small villages in the valleys while the wind was just enough of a breeze to keep us cool but not really slow us down. The fields were busier than the roads with harvesters and massive tractor trailers making the most of the long dry days.<br />
<br />
We have started to use our awesome aeropresse coffee maker - the last gizmo to be pulled from the bags. Check them out online, they make a good cup of coffee.<br />
<br />
Our progress means that we are now almost at the northern tip of our tour of NE France which we reach tomorrow at Charleville-Meziers. From there we follow the River Meuse South upstream past Verdun before heading West and meandering back to Paris.<br />
<br />
There are more campsites now, so Hazel is happy, but we are really enjoying the chambres d'hôte experience as well. In fact, we are currently both beached after being fed far too much by our current hosts. Deliberately not thinking about the weather which has been fantastic so far. There are some hills ahead, which I am also trying to ignore.<br />
<br />
Highlight of today was seeing my first baguette dispensing machine. A marvel of technology brought to you by the inventors of bread that you can hide down the leg of your trousers.Hazel Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08950941425471706113noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2247216300076514153.post-50071243335020823022015-06-29T12:49:00.000-07:002015-06-29T12:49:03.925-07:00Day seven (Sunday) Reims - "Vous etes ici" (you are here)<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">Cakes: 1 pain au chocolat each; plus an ice-cream (which doesn't really count); coffee x 3 each</span><br />
<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;"><br /></span>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3731/19230564342_57438bc8e6_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3731/19230564342_57438bc8e6_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
After arriving in Reims yesterday we decided that it would be great to take an extra day to relax and explore this simply stunning city. John, wheeling out his ever-improving French called up some of the Chambres d'hotes near the city centre, and, after about 7 calls found a super apartment that was 5 mins away from the cathedral and 3 mins away from the canal and surrounding 'green zone'. As well as having just been done out, the apartment had...joy of joys...a washing machine! We had been doing our best with hand washing in the shower, but what tends to happen is everything in your clothes pannier starts to smell 'almost clean' (with a slight hint of parfum de bag lady). So, first thing was to empty every item of clothing from our panniers and start a grand washing spree.<br />
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/461/19210403006_9d35661003_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/461/19210403006_9d35661003_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
In the meantime we set off for a picnic breakfast beside the canal in the shade of oak trees. It was an excellent spot to observe the Reims Sunday stampede of runners weaving around packs of cyclists. Peach looks as though it is the colour de jour - for men as well as women! And age isn't a barrier - from the very young to the very mature, everyone was out.<br />
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/319/19058416569_4cb19af4bf_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/319/19058416569_4cb19af4bf_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
Replete, we then headed back to the apartment, where John gallantly sorted out our route for the rest of our trip, and I donned my running shoes and went to join the runner stampede. Awesome run, with little wooded parks to pop into just off the main canal path, and tiny lanes to trot along. Unbelievable in such a big place.<br />
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/529/18613970934_4b7f6b7694_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/529/18613970934_4b7f6b7694_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
The rest of the day we spent wandering around the inside of the incredible cathedral, which has been restored since nearly being destroyed in the first world war. Then a stroll around the adjacent palace where pieces of the historical puzzle started to fall into place such as the nuns in Chateau Thierry contributing to some of the needlework for the cloaks of kings; and a simple cloak or tabard could weigh about 8kg!<br />
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3677/19048847168_ab986a3fa8_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3677/19048847168_ab986a3fa8_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
Further exploration brought us to a place where we could enjoy a beer, and indulge in some people-watching. An excellent day, for sure.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/502/19210138256_198a4f00fd_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/502/19210138256_198a4f00fd_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
Hazel Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08950941425471706113noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2247216300076514153.post-4824934893499051182015-06-28T22:07:00.002-07:002015-06-28T22:13:44.495-07:00Day six Val-de-Vesle to Reims 25km 2 hours<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">Cakes: 1 croissant each; shared 1 pain auchoccoolat,, oone Mille-feuille<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;"> and 1 Paris Brest; Coffee 3 x each</span><br />
</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/407/19020288980_cc9fbe4cbb_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/407/19020288980_cc9fbe4cbb_n.jpg" /></a> </div>
<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;"><br /></span></span>
<br />
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
It was a joy to wake up in the tent. The birds were bellowing away in the trees, and the Moorhen who lives on the river that meanders by the campsite was cheeping plaintively to her three chicks. A watery sun was just making it's way through the branches of the trees.</div>
<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
</span>
<br />
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;"><a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/325/19020282410_607797d58e_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/325/19020282410_607797d58e_n.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;"><br /></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
</span>
<br />
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">A little on the chilly side, we still enjoyed a good breakfast before heading off for a short cycling day to Reims. It was a pretty easy day, with a lot alongside a canal. A highlight for me was seeing several horse and buggies going by...like an antique car rally but with horses :) They were all beautifully turned out, and the driver and passengers were wearing what looked like Victorian period costume. A little surreal, but marvellously picturesque.</span><br />
<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;"><br /></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
</span>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;"><a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/511/19021704119_c2c663b324_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/511/19021704119_c2c663b324_n.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;"><br /></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
The jaunt along the canal was punctuated with a quick stop for some sublime pastries, which helped ease the small section of sandy track where we had to push our bikes before jumping on to a tar-sealed lane all the way into the centre of Reims. No traffic, and there was even a lift up from the canal to road level, where we cycled pretty much directly to the incredible edifice that is the cathedral here. </div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/495/19207810955_cfdb169723_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/495/19207810955_cfdb169723_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
I'm going to keep this short and sweet because John has added his bit below.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<b>John's bit</b></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">I am writing this while sitting at a street cafe in Riems in the late <a href="x-apple-data-detectors://0" x-apple-data-detectors-result="0" x-apple-data-detectors-type="calendar-event" x-apple-data-detectors="true">afternoon sun</a> at the end of a glorious Saturday, watching the world go by and waiting for the very busy waiter to reach my table. Very, very civilised; very, very French.</span><br />
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/375/19020049880_bcec622d9e_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/375/19020049880_bcec622d9e_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">My last post was after our second day, and a few miles and kilometres have rolled under our pram sized wheels since then. The bikes continue to work well. The 8 speed cassette and internal 3 speed hub gear (for the Brits, think chopper bikes and Sturmey Archer gears) are good, giving maybe 11 gears and an easy way to drop 3 or 4 gears in one go - very useful when you stop all the time to read the map. The technology is good as well as I use a map app on the iPad mini to plot and follow the route. But I do need paper to plan the route. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/495/19207736125_2f6b7a2d22_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/495/19207736125_2f6b7a2d22_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">The other evening we had a lengthy discussion which I would summarise as a robust debate on the correct PK ratio for a cycle trip where P = pastries (I have conceded that pain au chocolat should be considered a pastry) and K = kilometres. I think this should be around 1 cake per 20km and I also think there is a limit (yes, even for me) of 3 cakes a day. Hazel's view inclines towards fewer cakes and more kays. I made my case well but, needless to say, I lost that argument.</span></div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3912/19048615780_f01a93028b_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3912/19048615780_f01a93028b_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">The very next day we set off to cover a greater distance. I upped the anti in the patisserie department sneaking in a cafe eclair and hazel set her sights on the distant town of Epernay.</span></div>
<div>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Despite the extra pastry power I was still reduced to a wobbly mess after a few unexpectedly long and deceptively steep climbs. 5 kilometres away from our destination I could go no further. We found a shop that was open (no small thing in rural France where shops are open fewer hours than the churches) and in a hypo glycemic (sp!) fit I grabbed anything that looked like a carbohydrate in a wild trolley dash only to then queue for 10 minutes fighting off dizziness while the lovely but slow 95 year old cashier rang everything up with one finger on a machine from the 1800's - at least I would be able to pay for my goodies in the event of a power cut. I ate the lot and after a few minutes absorbing the sugars I was back on the road. Slow progress behind a slightly worried looking but somewhat smug Hazel towards the home of Moët.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/497/18585150504_759e221959_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/497/18585150504_759e221959_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Two days later and we are now spending the weekend in Reims sucking up some culture. I like to think I play the longer game, but it was probably all part of Hazel's master plan.</span></div>
<div>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3673/18621960274_143be988b0_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3673/18621960274_143be988b0_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Highlight of today was ordering a cake called a Paris Brest and being corrected in my pronunciation by the gorgeous cashier.</span></div>
<div>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">And here's the waiter.</span></div>
</div>
</span>Hazel Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08950941425471706113noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2247216300076514153.post-14082233375138268022015-06-28T04:34:00.001-07:002015-06-28T04:36:09.899-07:00Day five Epernay to Val-de-Vesle 57km 3.48 hours<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">Cakes: 1 croissant each; 0.5 pain au chocolat aux armandes; 1 chausson aux pommes; Coffee 3 x each</span><br />
<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;"><br /></span>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/342/19023236139_144e60c54d_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/342/19023236139_144e60c54d_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
I missed blogging last night as I was nobbled by a beer, a small tumble (caused by the beer and a close encounter with a curb), followed by a couple of glasses of bubbles for the shock!! :) We had headed out at the end of a glorious hot sunny day of cycling for a wee jar at the local hostlery. On the way back to the campsite we popped in to see a gorgeous old church. The beer had befuddled me a little, and realising 1) I was on the wrong side of the road, and 2) there was a car coming, I attempted to bump up the really small curb. I went over the curb, the bike didn't. I was clipped in to my pedals, so trying to signal the lady (aghast) in the car that I was OK, I then performed a comedy show that involved me unclipping while pinned under the bike and the rucksack of supplies I was carrying (all the while smiling reassuringly at the lady who was still sitting in her car watching). Only once I had extracted myself and stood up did she also smile and drive away. The very good news is that the baguette and various pastries, cheeses, and bottle of champagne were unscathed. The good news was that I only suffered with gravel rash on my elbow and knee, and a rather bruised dignity!<br />
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/551/18587071853_52224375da_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/551/18587071853_52224375da_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
Prior to the comedy pratt fall, we had experienced a fabulous day's cycling again. Blue skies, fluffy clouds, and rolling hills. One of the things I was fascinated by was the heaps of sweet pea flowers growing in many of the verges. The perfume was exquisite, and they look stunning. </div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/284/19203490712_fa3e02aabd_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/284/19203490712_fa3e02aabd_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
As well as verges full of wild flowers, another thing that really caught my attention today was the empty villages. We would cycle through entire villages and see noone. A cat might yawn, stretch and watch our passing, but otherwise the places appeared to be almost deserted. Having said that, the vineyards had almost whole families working on the vines, and the schools were full.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/356/19203491782_8452a9a5d9_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/356/19203491782_8452a9a5d9_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
Lunch was in another shady spot, this time beside a (deserted) canal. We are venturing into more adventurous territory on the pastries front after yesterday's eclaire, and shared a light, fluffy, fragrant apple turnover. Sigh - heaven. Then, back on the bikes to weave up and through the vineyards, and back down again, and then up (ask John about the hills ;) ), to finally arrive at a rather nice campsite. Which brings me to the point where we set up camp and went for that beer :D</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/299/19021715048_f64c7c8335_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/299/19021715048_f64c7c8335_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
Hazel Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08950941425471706113noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2247216300076514153.post-10473538681546581382015-06-27T10:58:00.001-07:002015-06-27T10:58:44.958-07:00Day four Chateau Thierry to Epernay 65km 4.5 hoursCakes: 1 croissant each; 0.5 pain au chocolat; 1 eclair; Coffee 2 x each<br />
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
Today was a peach of a day!! It felt and smelt like a summer day. A pot pourri of the scents of flowers, hay, dust, and a little je ne sais quoi of something else.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu7gRJHh1k_3AKkYRvFNgO9EjPh3ymdzEC7MaSoGT2ez2SodRJYFRJiNee00PiDjqZQaL6TTGudBgOIaltnfsTVpefSq4C96t67igcWpOXFWlJefKotDIS_vstW5I5u3EgFiR4tOKlSpU/s1600/20150625_124138.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu7gRJHh1k_3AKkYRvFNgO9EjPh3ymdzEC7MaSoGT2ez2SodRJYFRJiNee00PiDjqZQaL6TTGudBgOIaltnfsTVpefSq4C96t67igcWpOXFWlJefKotDIS_vstW5I5u3EgFiR4tOKlSpU/s320/20150625_124138.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
A short post today, as it has been a tiring one. As well as an increase in distance, we also did some reasonable hills, and the temperature got up to 25 degrees. Toward the end of the day we were both a little on the 'glowing' side, and John was starting to go nuclear to the point where we had to have an emergency shop stop for chips (aka crisps), cookies (aka biscuits), and water.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3773/18962196798_375d1b15ac_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3773/18962196798_375d1b15ac_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
The day's cycling was outstanding though. We started out following the river Marne, then headed off for Vincelles, Roncheres and Champoisy for a bit of a scenic detour. Vast swathes of arable land covered the top of the plateau, interspersed with tiny villages, each with a different type of church, and all with a sign with the name of a village, and flowers planted beneath the sign.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/309/19143969592_f12d3526e3_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/309/19143969592_f12d3526e3_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
Our lunch spot was idyllic. A small tree offered shade, and our vantage point meant we could see for miles. Lunch was fabulous. Fresh baguette, local cheese, a tomato, a nectarine, and a shared eclaire...sheer heaven.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3739/19149824025_1995921cfb_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3739/19149824025_1995921cfb_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
After lunch we cycled through a deliciously shady forest, followed by a full on decent through vineyards with names we recognised having imbibed, and enjoyed, their produce on many occasions! Once back down and following quite roads parallel to the river, we continued to pass through tiny towns, often with ruins, and sometimes with massive statues pointing out over the hills. There were also a couple of challenging climbs.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/423/18963679799_4eba4d57c5_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/423/18963679799_4eba4d57c5_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
Needless to Epernay was a sight for sore eyes, and a respite for tired legs. Our accommodation isn't quite as exciting as last night's, but comfortable, and with wireless so can't complain. We had a sublime meal in the Restaurant Theatre, accompanied by our first glass of champagne in the region. Roll on tomorrow. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
Hazel Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08950941425471706113noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2247216300076514153.post-57425416380896319242015-06-24T12:59:00.002-07:002015-06-24T13:09:29.360-07:00Day three La-Ferte-sous-Jouarre to Chateau Thierry<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">Day three La-Ferte-sous-Jouarre to Chateau Thierry 30km 2.5 hours</span><br />
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
Cakes: 1 croissant each; 0.5 pain au chocolat; Coffee 2 x each<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/329/19097698296_0f4def6fe1_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/329/19097698296_0f4def6fe1_n.jpg" /></a></div>
Another short day. The places to stay seem to be a little thin on the ground, and we appear to have arrived before the high season has really kicked in. So we have to work around towns where there are places to stay. This is good in that there are way fewer people around and not so good in that many of the potential places to stay are still closed. Having said that we are satying in a 16th century Chambres d'hotes tonight. It's amazing. You walk up a lot of steps going ever upward in a spiral, and arrive in a room that is done out in a mix of Arabian Nights meets Chateau Thierry 'making the most of a under the beams loft space'. We love it!!</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
We woke up to fog this morning (at last a chance to say au fait du brouillard - and I could be way off on the spelling there - something I learned at school but never had an opportunity to actually say in an authentic context). The fog cleared to give us wall to wall blue skies, and a chance to cycle in the sun. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/473/18937591070_f3376d504e_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/473/18937591070_f3376d504e_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
We set off on a road that was supposedly busy, but in fact was lovely and quiet. The rolling fields of ripening corn, barley and oats, interspersed with ancient churches, abbeys, and chateaux, continued to line out route. A few turns later, and we crossed the border into the Champagne region.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/256/18924668620_30a886fbb1_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/256/18924668620_30a886fbb1_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
Almost immediately we spotted vineyards - lots of them - striding up hills in straight lines, being tended by hand and by this great machine that trims the vines by driving over the top of them. Well - maybe not literally. The trimming blades and cab are perfectly positioned, high up, so that the driver can go up and down the lines of vines trimming off the tendrils that are not required.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
The cycling was blissful. We stopped off in a couple of tiny villages, and had morning tea beside a water fountain in an art commune.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/339/18489845074_31695c8897_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/339/18489845074_31695c8897_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
Having reached Chateau Thierry we booked in for a tour of the old hospital (dating from the 1300s). At this point my school girl French was stretched to past breaking point, as the tour was in French. I could understand...about 1 word in 20, and possibly more when the guide was talking about subjects such as eating and ablutions! The Musee de l'Hotel-Dieu un Tresor was an eye-opening mix of exquisite embroidery and carving, along with interesting details such as (I think...translation allowing) nuns who were not allowed to wash, so had copious quantities of flowers and pot pourri around the place to mask the smell.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
I'm just about to turn in. We're still wresting a bit with jet lag, and general 'stress hangover'. Very much looking forward to tomorrow.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/496/18501483514_bfb6979fe6_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/496/18501483514_bfb6979fe6_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
Hazel Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08950941425471706113noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2247216300076514153.post-48010503617064824892015-06-23T12:19:00.003-07:002015-06-23T23:03:57.743-07:00Day two - Meaux to La-Ferte-sous-Jouarre 30km 2.5 hours<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">Cakes: 1 pain au chocolat, and 1 croissant amande; Coffees: 2 each</span><br />
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<span id="goog_1284660110"></span><span id="goog_1284660111"></span>I am sitting here at a little bar with John, drinking a rather nice local beer, and counting the number of cars that are passing with dings of some sort. A brief, non-scientific sample suggests that about 1/3 of the passing cars have at least one dent or scratch. I suspect that this indicates the narrowness of the streets, as well as the fact that we are either geeks, and/or beginning to relax...or something else entirely! It has an element of absurdity that was also present when, yesterday, we went into a pharmacy to buy some anti-chafe cream. Given that neither of us has a very broad vocabulary in French, it was quite entertaining trying to mime what we were looking for without pointing to the obvious nether regions. The very attractive young assistant, non-plussed by John's description, went to find the pharmacist wherein the process had to be repeated. Finally, a look of understanding crossed her face, and smiles all around as we departed clutching our tube of anti-chafe.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/505/19096091431_7fdbc0ae92_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/505/19096091431_7fdbc0ae92_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
Today was a short, but full day. Chilly, but with some sunshine and a few clouds, we set off to the River Meaux. The road we took swooped downhill (not so good if we had to turn around and go back, given we weren't 100% sure we were on the right track). The dead end sign was also a worry, but the very wise John suggested that we continue in case it was only for cars. Sure enough, we ended up on a lovely track with overarching trees and dappled sunshine. We popped out the end of the track to see...a camel in a paddock. Yup, a camel.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/338/18905200078_262018889e_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/338/18905200078_262018889e_n.jpg" /></a></div>
</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
We followed a winding lane through tiny villages stacked with flowers. The grass verges alongside the lane were a blast from my childhood, with brilliant blue cornflowers and hare bells, fields of ripening barley, swathes of corn with stalks so green at the moment, they were almost blue, and the ever present sound of birds. The big difference were the incredible chateaux and old, usually very ornate barns that we would come across in what felt like the middle of nowhere.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/486/18905019690_a3f80d8df2_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/486/18905019690_a3f80d8df2_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
The Terns performed pretty well up the hills, and were more stable down the hills with the four panniers on, which was great. Also cool that we could fold them up last night to fit in the cupboard in the place in which we were staying!</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
We got to La-Ferte-sous-Jouarre just as the market was closing, so loaded up with cheese. I ventured into the boulangerie to emerge after an airing of my terrible French, brief lesson on pronunciation, and a very large loaf of bread...and 2 cakes! The loaf wasn't quite what I'd gone in for, but it's really tasty.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/539/19087092132_3ea73cc5d7_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/539/19087092132_3ea73cc5d7_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
A quick coffee in the central square led to 2 conversations with some lovely guys. The first sat down and talked rapidly in French and once he realised that I knew very little we lapsed into a sort of pigeon mime, and the second one spoke way more English and we were able to touch on quite a few subjects including his relatives in Kansas, and some of the beauties of both France and New Zealand.</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
We're now sorting out our plan for tomorrow. More cakes, more coffee, and more fabulous cycling.<br />
<br />
<b>John's Spot:
</b><br />
<br />
Cycling in France again and I couldn't be happier. The views so far have been rolling fields of barley and wheat punctuated by poppies and edged with wild flowers. The canal we rode along yesterday was also a treat - childhood memories of falling from my bike into a grimy canal in Birmingham have now been replaced with something far better. We have moved on from busy roads and high rise estates near Paris and we now pass through ancient villages on empty roads beside the ruins of stately homes destroyed in the revolution.
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3838/19066418056_8c8a539299_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3838/19066418056_8c8a539299_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
The comedy bikes are working well. Reassembly was a doddle at the airport and we went from 2 battered boxes to 2 bikes on the road in far less than 2 hours. The easy hills are no problem and they roll along at 25kmh easily enough. Although I do miss the quiet rolling of my trusty rholoff hub. Still a bit wobbly on decent and I am not 100% confident in the brakes, so they may need a tweak. They are also pretty comfortable. The position is rather upright so cycling into a strong wind may be challenging, but that is what rest days and trains are for.
<br />
<br />
The pastries and breads are as good as ever. We have just eaten too much Brie de Meaux, which was delicious. No wine yet - saving up for Champagne tomorrow.
<br />
<br />
Highlight of the trip so far has to be watching Hazel leave the boulangerie carrying half of the shop's produce. The result of answering every question with an enthusiastic Oui! I may ask all my questions of Hazel in French from now on.
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/449/18470066974_13150896cc_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/449/18470066974_13150896cc_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<br /></div>
Hazel Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08950941425471706113noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2247216300076514153.post-81708645125582972002015-06-22T11:32:00.001-07:002015-06-22T11:32:28.522-07:00 Day one - Charles de Gaulle Airport to Meaux <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ1IVlgcY3Dl7R2NliWZwc_fbs4ltDRHbbsj8MmgWuaupCGdxb0eOVetlHa4ADtslRQz-UKHkxiECwzO-xqZW-MyX56Vft54zJ6_4zR1G5fvqnDxkUVulY1C830voJ8MaU9ueFRCE9otk/s1600/20150622_102219.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ1IVlgcY3Dl7R2NliWZwc_fbs4ltDRHbbsj8MmgWuaupCGdxb0eOVetlHa4ADtslRQz-UKHkxiECwzO-xqZW-MyX56Vft54zJ6_4zR1G5fvqnDxkUVulY1C830voJ8MaU9ueFRCE9otk/s320/20150622_102219.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">Day one - Charles de Gaulle Airport to Meaux 45.55km 3 hrs 18 mins</span><br />
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
Cakes: 1.5 pain au chocolat each; Coffees: 2 each<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
It was a long flight and even managing to sleep pretty well, we were both in that strange woozy state that is a mix of jet lag and trying to sleep in a near upright position. My ankles are now the size of small melons, but hey!<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
We retrieved our wonderful bikes pretty easily, and marvelled at how the 'professional' baggage handlers had done such a stirling job wrecking the boxes...again. We'd reinforced them after the first leg to Kuala Lumpur. Luckily the bikes inside were fine, and we were really impressed at how easy they were to get sorted ready to ride off. I was particularly impressed by the track pump that fits in the seat post. Works a treat.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
After we had escaped on our bikes from Charles de Gaulle Airport, no mean feat in and of itself, even with the incredibly useful directions John had found on the Internet. Even that had some lovely moments, such as the splashes of colour from the wild flowers around the place. Once we made it to the suburbs of Paris, we were fine, especially once we made it to the track beside the Canal Ourcq.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/330/19034746776_f4d91e9df1_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/330/19034746776_f4d91e9df1_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
It seemed to be a day of amazing aromas - elder flowers, honeysuckle, bonfires; remembered experiences - fresh croissant, pain au chocolat, blackbirds and thrushes singing; and long, long avenues of trees fringing the canal.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/510/19061161405_4d1f57b42c_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/510/19061161405_4d1f57b42c_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
</div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
We stopped for lunch in Lizy-sur-Ourcq, a pleasant little market town with some lovely old buildings, and flowers everywhere. Sitting on a bench eating our baguette and cheese, it was neat to be wished 'bon appetit' by two passing ladies. </div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
The bikes have been a joy, even on the gravel surface of the canal path, so we're really happy. We were even happier to have timed our first day just right, and arrived in Meaux just as it began to rain. We are just about to go off to sleep, but I wanted to start with a first blog post :) I think tomorrow may be less cycling, and more exploring. We'll see.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/536/19034416076_6927393485_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/536/19034416076_6927393485_n.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
Hazel Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08950941425471706113noreply@blogger.com0