Day twenty one (Sunday) Epernay to Charly 75 km 5hours 20 mins

Cakes: 2 x croissant each; 1 x pain au chocolat each; 1 chausson aux pommes (shared); 1 x eclaire each; Coffee 1 x each

We are now moving back to paths  and places we have already cycled as we travelled in the other direction. I keep asking John if we can go around again!! Having said that, while the weather has been incredibly kind (and I do know that I sound a tad 'whiney' here) it would be good not to be cycling into a head wind for a while.

One thing that is different is that the signs of the season are changing. The poppies are now mainly seedheads, many of the fields have been harvested, and some ploughed, and the grapes are very obvious on the vines.

As we have cycled through the towns, villages and cities I have seen a pattern emerge. In the vast majority of places many people cultivate a potages (veggie garden). These gardens are almost without exception meticulously laid-out and tended, weed-free, and apparently growing vigorously. The lines are invariably straight, and the canes upright. The effect is pleasing to the eye and I suspect, when the time is right, the stomach. 

Mind you, I do wonder how on earth the gardener manages to consume all of the produce! I know when we had our allotment in the UK, and our veggie gardens in Auckland there were times when we were totally overwhelmed with a specific vegetable, and there are only so many way you can eat and preserve, for example, a broad bean! We tended to distribute the excess around our neighbours.

We had fun trying to find the campsite in Charly, which, when located, turned out to be very pleasant. We had brought a picnic along with us for the evening, and washed this down with a sample of the local champagne. The gentle drizzle didn't penetrate the leaf cover of the tree under which we were sitting, and we had a good long chat about what and where next - physically and metaphorically.

Day twenty (Saturday) Chalon-en-champagne to Epernay 50km hours

Cakes: 1 x croissant each; 1 x pain aux chocolat each; Coffee 2 x each

Packing up our tent today we had a little visitor. It started with a bit of rustling around the bags and a little ginger tabby tail. The kitten who had decided to help us pack then got his nose into everything. He hopped into bags, tried to eat the breakfast baguette. Found the bag with the cheese in it and started to gnaw through it...all the time purring like a freight train. I have no idea how something so very small could make such a loud, contented sound. He was gorgeous and if I thought I could get away with it I would have popped him in the top of a pannier and brought him home. Instead we are left with some fun memories and a photo.

Packed and fed, we said goodbye to the little ball of ginger fluff, and headed off to the canal again. The path was smooth and lined with flowers, and the air cool and heavy with the fragrance of 'green'.

Initially we made good progress, stopping to admire little villages along the way. The path stopped abruptly so we dropped into one of these villages and started the process of climbing and descending. Now back in chalk country there is a quite a bit of this!  

After one such climb we stopped for coffee. Talking away John suddenly announced 'well that was a mistake'. I looked over and there, very close to him was a tiny field mouse who had run across the road and not seeing us, run straight towards us. The mouse froze. I went around the back to gently suggest it might want to make an exit into the neighbouring field and which point the mouse went totally immobile. I have never touched a live filed mouse before but I was able to softly stroke the mouse along the back before literally nudging it along - at which point the mouse exited rapidly. 

The vineyards have started to proliferate again, creating a very green background to the fading gold of the corn. We rolled along into the ever-present head wind suddenly noticing an apparent castle keep on the horizon. On closer inspection it turned out to be a whimsy that a 19th century landowner had commissioned to hide the pipes at the head of a canal - very cool.

We headed back into Epernay for a second time on our trip, although John had been so zonked the first time he didn't recognise it! We managed to coincide this stay with some sort of motorbike rally (Eddie - you would have been in seventh heaven I reckon!!). This was interesting in many ways...although peace and quiet were definitely not the order of the day. 

We did find an awesome fromagerie though, and partook of some of the produce. There was also an opportunity to imbibe a little more of the champagne. John made an observation that I have been mulling over...it does appear that Epernay has focussed almost entirely on champagne, possibly at the expense of other history and culture around the area. I guess everyone has to make a crust, and judging from the prosperity of this town, and others that surround it, they are making a loaf or two. Off to Charly tomorrow!!

Day nineteen (Friday) Chalon-en-champagne 18km

Cakes: 1 x croissant each; 1 x tartelet aux citron (Hazel); 1 x tartelet aux apricots (John); Coffee 3 x each

A top cycle touring tip - never travel without ear plugs. They are your friend. In all sorts of situations and places they can help ensure a peaceful sleep. Case in point - even though the campsite was a little on the noisy front last night I had 8 and a half hours luxurious, delicious sleep.

Rested, and not needing to stir until 8am (to go to pick up the baguette and croissant from the camp office), we dallied over breakfast before hopping on our bikes (sans luggage) to have a look at the town with its many layers of history.

On the way in we popped into a supermarche to get a few things that it is tricky to find elsewhere. I popped in leaving John with the bikes. Usually, it's fine. With my limited francais I am able to greet, apologise, ask for directions etc. So, fruit, some veggies, a few other bits and bobs and over to the checkout I head. Wait in line. The checkout lady puts through the first few things and then gets to the fruit and veg. After having a careful look at the bags she then fires something rapid at me in French. I get the bunny caught in the headlights 'please help me look', unable to remember one word of French at that point. She repeats what she has just said, a little faster, and with pointing. Nope - still the bunny feeling. The lovely man in the queue behind me hoves into action and calls one of his friends (Claudette) over (she has finished her shopping and is chatting with a friend). Claudette dashes over, grabs my offending veggies and fruit, and heads back into the supermarket...at which point it occurs to me that I had to weigh and tag them. Claudette comes galloping back with everything sorted. This was an occasion where being able to say thank you in a couple of ways was a bonus!! Lovely folks.

John had a good chuckle before we head into the town to wander through the churches, the incredible cathedral and the gardens. The place has a lovely feel to it, and surprises such as a timber framed wedge-shaped house butted up against a church.

Many of the religious buildings, including the synagogue, were trashed during the revolution with many of the icons taken or broken. There was also a trend for then using the interiors as stables! Needless to say, although much of the stonework is still broken, there is no remaining signs of equine habitation.

The second world war took its toll too, with gates and statues being melted down, and one of the old bridges bombed.

We are planning to head back in this evening to listen to some music (concerts libres), and to sample some more of the local wine. Tomorrow, we have a short day of 35km to Epernay so we can maybe have a glass extra :).

Day eighteen (Thursday) Saint Dizier to Chalon-en-champagne 82km 5 hours 20 mins

Cakes: 2 x croissant each; 1 x pain au chocolat each; 1 chausson aux pommes (shared); 1 x eclaire each; Coffee 1 x each

We had a bit of a chat about the nature of perfection and excellence today, especially around the notion of perfection as something that is subjective and fleeting - something that, in that moment, for a specific person, could not be improved upon - although John felt perfection was something where a line is drawn in the temporal sand that could not be improved upon going forward. Excellence on the other hand, we both felt there was an element of agreement around what factors comprise excellence, as well as comparison between things or skills.

This is a really long way of saying that, while yesterday's cycling was verging on excellent for both of us yesterday (although some factors were missing), some elements were (for me) were perfection. Today, however, if asked, I'd say there were moments of perfection (the reflection of the wild flowers in a still moment by the canal for instance), whereas the cycling was distinctly mixed.

For the first 20km we headed alongside the canal - which was perfectly straight...and directly into quite a brisk head wind. We passed the air base and watched a couple of jets take off (quickly and noisily); we avoided the folks walking their dogs and commuting cyclists; and we pushed into the wind.

A couple of highlights for the day included cycling past a tiny potages (veggie garden...more to follow on this subject soon), and cycling into a village that, apart from the cars, looked as though it had been transported intact from the 15th century.

Once we reached Vitres the cycle path abruptly stopped and dumped us in the middle of quite an industrial landscape (chemical industry), with large graffiti-ed apartment blocks, and a distinctly down-at-heel feel to the place. We made our way through the town and on to Chaumont along a really busy main road for the first couple of kilometres but then dropping onto the D52, where we stopped for eclaire.

We found a path that followed the canal again but the surface varied from lovely smooth tar seal, to pot holes with strips of tar seal sort of visible, to gravel path, to beaten earth (both with potholes). The surfaces where what John called 'interactive'! Made for a long 80 kilometers.

All the more grateful, however, we rolled into Chaumont, found the campsite, set up camp and then headed back into the town...which is glorious!! Jaw-dropping. We've decided to take an extra day here to explore the many layers of history (and cakes). Can't wait.

Day seventeen (Wednesday) Chaumont to Saint Dizier (Monday) Neufchateau to Chaumont 81km 4 hours 46mins

Cakes: 1 croissant each; 1 pain au chocolat each; 1 tartes aux almondes (John); Coffee 2 x each

What glorious cycling! We had been unsure as we'd packed up our tent (on a day chilly enough to wear a fleece while packing up) if the cycle route beside the canal would go for any distance with a reasonable surface. Not only was is a great surface but there was even a bit of a following breeze at the start of the day as well.

The canal was lined with a variety of fragrant wildflowers, as well as pots spilling over with geraniums and other brightly coloured blossoms, as well as old lock-keeper's places.

We ventured into some of the tiny villages that sat near the canal, noticing a greater prevalence of timber-framed houses. One we visited - about 30 buildings, a church, a hairdresser's and a tabac - we were met by a lovely old guy who told us (we guessed piecing together our broken French) that the church was open and we should visit.

The first thing that struck me walking into the church was the relative simplicity, the peace, and the beautiful light. As well as stained glass windows, some were edged with a lacy effect that mottled the flagstones. The whole place felt like somewhere you might want to stop and take a moment.

We continued thoughtfully on our way pleasantly meditative, and delighting as the kilometres purred away under our tyres. 

There was an interesting moment where I thought "stick on the path". Then another part of my brain kicked in at which point I realised that I was about to run over a snake. Not a good thing to do as I am pretty sure the snake (an adder I think) would have objected. Swerving a little wildly I missed the snake, slammed the brakes on and returned with my camera...maintaining a very respectful distance - beautiful.

Saint Dizier is an interesting little town and we meandered around the historic walk (a lot of intricate cast iron and metalwork castings), before settling in for a beer and a good meal. Another long day tomorrow, and maybe the route will continue along the canal.

Day sixteen (Tuesday) Chaumont

Cakes: 1 croissant each; 1 pain au chocolat (John); 1 tarte fuites (Hazel); tarte tartin (John); Coffee 1 x each

It was a really great feeling to hear the cycle tourer next door (70 years old if he was a day) packing up his tent at 7am, and to be able to roll over and snooze for another hour. After a well deserved lie in we did some more washing. Washing by hand is something you get really used to on a cycling adventure, although I am pretty sure that sometimes we are just redistributing the dirt more evenly!!

A light breakfast and we headed into Chaumont via a steeply, heavily wooded path that climbed up to .a fort. We clambered around like 10 year olds and had a whale of a time having a look into all the dark cubby holes and grilles around the place.

Next stop was the extraordinary church. Part Gothic and then built on over the centuries, the detail of much of the stonework and wood carving was exquisite. We could also see on the ceiling and some of the pillars faded remnants of the painting that would have decorated the interior. As well as the incredible light, the organist was practising while we walked around, treating us to a musical treat that enhanced the ambience of the experience.

By this point John was starting to talk a lot about coffee and croissant - always a sign! A bit of carbo loading (which included the beautiful tarte fruites I have pictured here), and we then settled down for some serious planning for the final days of our trip. Air BnB was our friend, and we've booked an old artist's apartment with a bay window, a washing machine, and a place to store our bikes. Perfect. We also have a plan for the rest of the route.

Now it's beer o'clock, and time to sign off. Back on the bikes tomorrow, and a biggish day to Saint Dizier.

Day fifteen (Monday) Neufchateau to Chaumont 80km 4 hours 45mins

Cakes: 1 croissant each; 1 pain au chocolat each; 1 tarte limon (John); Coffee 1 x each

Leaving early enough for what was going to be a hot (if slightly cooler) day required almost military precision and planning. What was supposed to be an early night was scuppered by the fact that the temperature didn't really drop until about 2.30am, making for a fitful kip. Panniers were, however, almost packed, washing (done by hand the night before) folded and ready if dry, and all technology was fully charged. Seven in the morning we sprang into action with John making a dash to the nearest patisserie - and the only one that was open - to get bread and pastries to bolster our meagre supplies of two apples and some cheese that had been melted once and formed itself into a nameless lump in the bag (the shops were all closed when we had arrived the day before).

By 7.30, stomachs making noises like wood pigeons, we set off...up the first hill of the day...an approx 5 km climb. Puffing a tad by the time we reached the top we pulled over for a bite to eat in the shade of some trees. Melted and re-solidified cheese and 2-day old apples never tasted so good!!

We rolled on through large fields of corn, barley, wheat and cows (all in separate paddocks mind). It was telling to see the corn, which was blue/green and unripe when we started out taking on the golden tones that mean it will soon be ready to harvest. 

Once we popped onto the first D road of the day (try to avoid A roads where possible when cycling) we hardly saw any traffic, and bowled along with what turned out to be...a following breeze...our first for days. Bliss. After a couple of 10% and 20% climbs we dropped down to a river valley and fair hurtled along - a lovely route with absolutely stunning weather.

Passing one farm I was suddenly transported back to childhood by the pungent smell of cow dung, fresh hay and straw bales, flowers, and summer dust. For the next couple of hours the feeling was powerful with memories of the joy of six days of summer holiday, usually spent with aunties, grannies or other whanau, which meant being outside. The days seemed endless. Much of the time was spent on horseback, as well as helping with chores about the various farms / gardens, or wandering with a dog in the nearest woods clutching a book in one hand and a box with a marmite sandwich in the other. One of my favourite things was helping bring in the hay (when bales were small enough for one small person to lift by themselves at the end of a summer of chores). Everyone who was around helped from the oldest to the youngest. At the end of a long day, covered in hay rash, I would luxuriate in the shared sense of achievement and a big feed well-earned.

My reminiscing was interrupted by lunch in a sublime spot by an old weir. We were also joined by a local chap having his lunch. We made as much conversation you can when both parties only speak a little of each other's language, and he offered to share his bread and water. Lovely guy.

Feeling pleasantly drowsy after lunch, we set off again, for one of the biggest climbs of the day. Whoa - lactic acid. A patch of cool dappled oak and beech forest was a welcome relief, and absolutely gorgeous too. 

More climbing, and descending, and climbing - you get the picture - and we grind into Chaumont following signs for the campsite. Then out of Chaumont (down the hill we had just climbed, still following signs for the campsite), then back up into Chaumont (20% climb), only to then lose signs for the campsite. Not on the happy side we headed for the town centre (another climb). You may have guessed by now that we went up and down the same hill on different sides, three times :-) Ah well.

The campsite is grand and we managed to grab the shadiest tent site with 5 of our own trees.  Chaumont is gorgeous and we have decided to spend tomorrow exploring it. More tomorrow.